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Author: Subject: Oud building: step-by-step
paulO
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[*] posted on 10-21-2010 at 10:34 AM


Dear Sabbassi,

That maple looks flamboyant and the ebony separator strips look so cool and rich. Excellent work, thanks for sharing.

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sabbassi
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[*] posted on 10-26-2010 at 11:51 PM
liner strips in between ribs


Thanks paolo, it is indeed a nice combination.

maker, I use Titebond glue.

Here is a picture showing how I bend (very traditional), and how I put the liner strips in between ribs., I first glue both sides of the ribs (not the strip) and startjoining them using the tape. it is an easy process, as long as the ribs are 100% flat to eachother.


bending.jpg - 50kB purfling.JPG - 48kB last ribs.JPG - 58kB




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sabbassi
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[*] posted on 10-27-2010 at 12:13 AM
Flamed oud


In between, I have cut the sound holes, mounted the soundboard and the neck for the flamed maple Oud.

scraping and sanding the flamed maple is difficult, but after couple of hours of intensive sanding up to 600 grid, the maple become very nice.

I have also appllied a combination of two light thin coats of stain . the wood came out beautiful (goldish), I have also applied some frensh polish.

The neck is also flamed maple....

flamed maple SOUND HOLE.JPG - 48kB flamed maple 3.JPG - 81kB flamed maple FRONT.JPG - 65kB flamed maple back.JPG - 75kB

flamed maple back 2.JPG - 69kB




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sabbassi
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[*] posted on 11-8-2010 at 01:06 AM
Back on track


The bowl is now finished:
Some thoroughly scraping is done from the inside to remove any glue, bump or dirt.

a.jpg - 59kB

A circle is drawn inside the neck and the back and covered with tape. This is done to achieve a nice and clean paper strips ends when applying hot glue
b.jpg - 65kB


Paper stripes with hot glue to reinforce the ribs
c.jpg - 58kB
d.jpg - 61kB

After the hot glue is cured, the back is now scraped.
e.jpg - 56kB

The bowl is flattered to a flat board with a hand planner.
f.jpg - 53kB




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Kelly
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[*] posted on 11-8-2010 at 02:04 PM


Hey Samir
Beautiful work on those bowls. I love that flamed maple and the sound board looks great too.
Do you mount the bridge after fitting the soundboard to the bowl? is there any advantage to this- string height/string line?
What scale length are you making for?

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sabbassi
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[*] posted on 11-11-2010 at 01:49 AM


Hi Kelly,

Thank you. I always mount the bridge at end of the oud building process. it gives much more flexiblity, as the lenght, lining etc...I don't think mounting the bridge to soundboard before fitting to the bowl is good Idea. it need to be adjusted also to the fingerboard.
the neck is 19,5cm, which mean the strings lenght will be 3x19,5= 58,5 from bridge to nut.




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Yaron Naor
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[*] posted on 11-11-2010 at 02:09 AM
Bridge


Quote: Originally posted by sabbassi  
Hi Kelly,

Thank you. I always mount the bridge at end of the oud building process. it gives much more flexiblity, as the heght, lining etc...I don't think mounting the bridge to soundboard before fitting to the bowl is good Idea.
the neck is 19,5cm, which mean the strings lenght will be 3x19,5= 58,5 from bridge to nut.


Thanks for your answer, how do you glue the bridge after?
can you put some images?

Thanks
Yaron.




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sabbassi
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[*] posted on 11-11-2010 at 02:12 AM
Soundboard


I have choosen for this project an aged peace of cedar wood. I have sawed 4 peaces (book matched) couple of years ago and stored them in a dark dry spot in the basement and hope this will be rewarded with a nice sound.

g.jpg - 37kB

The sides are planed flat with a planner until there is no light gap between the boards.

ha.jpg - 46kB

Joined together with Titebond glue.

h.jpg - 46kB

Planned, scraped and sanded down to 2.0mm.

i.jpg - 68kB

The soundboard is cut following the bolw shape

ja.jpg - 51kB

I have choosen an oval design for the holes with a (not fixed) bridge this time. this is my first mobile bridge by the way. the centre of the big oval is 19,5 cm away from the top of the soundboard.

k.jpg - 33kB

3 holes open.

ma.jpg - 48kB

the holes are rounded (decorated) with 5 lines strips: Tulip/ebony macassar wood tripes

m.jpg - 46kB

7 braces are also in place.
5mm thick 18mm high at first place(all of them)

n.jpg - 35kB

The braces are then lowered and shaped to a pyramid shape
from top to bottom:


13mm,15mm,15mm,16mm,13-14mm,16mm,13mm

and lowered at both ends to almost 5mm, 4-5cm away to the ends.

o.jpg - 53kB




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sabbassi
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[*] posted on 11-11-2010 at 02:28 AM


Hi Yaron,

This oud wil be with a mobile bridge. But I can show you how to mount a fixed one. it easy.
I will post a picture.




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Yaron Naor
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[*] posted on 11-11-2010 at 02:35 AM


Quote: Originally posted by sabbassi  
Hi Yaron,

This oud wil be with a mobile bridge. But I can show you how to mount a fixed one. it easy.
I will post a picture.


Thanks! you are doing a fantastic work! I enjoy every post of it
Yaron.




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SamirCanada
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[*] posted on 11-11-2010 at 05:37 AM


Thanks for sharing ya Samir.

I also do my bracing in a similar way.




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sabbassi
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[*] posted on 11-15-2010 at 06:07 AM
soundboard mounted


before the soundboard is mounted to the oud bowl, a dovetail opening is made to the neck. the outlines of that frame is projected to the neck with an exacto knife for later.

p.jpg - 53kB

the soundboard then mounted, everything need to be alligned, the braces need to fit exact inside, touching the bowl but not pushing it.

q.jpg - 69kB


the neck is then hand sawed to fit in the dovetail.


r.jpg - 71kB s.jpg - 70kB t.jpg - 61kB




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abusin
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[*] posted on 11-15-2010 at 06:50 AM



Fantastic work once again Samir
sure it will be a happy Eid this year for you and buyers :D




Best Regards

Awad
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sabbassi
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[*] posted on 11-15-2010 at 02:14 PM
sanding


Thank you ya abusin.
3id moubarak also.

Sanding paper from 80 grid to 2000 grid.

IMAG0191.jpg - 90kB

After couple of hours of hand sanding the oud is ready to get the firt fillers and an oil coat:
the soundboard is also finished , 500 grid is fine enouph
the 800 and up to 2000 is for the bowl. but used later when using french polish.

IMAG0193.jpg - 109kB IMAG0194.jpg - 125kB


the back is oiled: tung oil.
the top with a very thin coat of purified linseed oil

IMAG0202.jpg - 134kB





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Mehran
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[*] posted on 11-15-2010 at 03:42 PM


Beautiful work as always Sabassi.

This is your first floating-bridge right? Have you had to make any major changes in the design of the oud (i.e. braces) when using a floating-bridge as opposed to a fixed-bridge??

Keep up the good work.

Mehran
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[*] posted on 11-16-2010 at 04:25 AM



Mehran, thanks
yes it is my first floating bridge. no major changes between this one and the fixed one. the braces are 1/2 mm thicker and the placement is to achieve less bass.

I started applying shellac and from time to time sand with 2000 grid and a filler. it's a real killer for smooth surface


DSC_9265.jpg - 157kB




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sabbassi
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[*] posted on 11-16-2010 at 02:16 PM
shellac and pegbox


After a dozen of shellac coats, the bowl looks very nice. I will leave it to cure for 24 hours.

DSC_9279.jpg - 95kB
DSC_9277.jpg - 129kB

in the mean time, the pegbox is also ready.

DSC_9275.jpg - 89kB




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sabbassi
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[*] posted on 11-19-2010 at 04:50 AM
END


The oud is finished and strings are up. a sound sample will follow up sometime...but it is very promissing already
thanks everyone for following this project.
soon another one.


DSC_9308.jpg - 136kB DSC_9312.jpg - 116kB DSC_9328.jpg - 150kB

DSC_9316.jpg - 176kB DSC_9320.jpg - 182kB




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Kelly
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[*] posted on 11-20-2010 at 11:42 AM




Amazing work Samir. You make it look so easy. What angle offset do you make for the neck. that dove tail joint must be spot on I guess. What thickness do you sand the braces to?

Cant wait for a sound sample




Kelly
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