Mike's Oud Forums

Please Help - my oud smells ... more and more AGAIN

fernandraynaud - 6-8-2010 at 09:54 PM

I am traveling in Central America, by the ocean, where the temperature is high and the humidity feels complete. My traveling companion is a cheap oud of unknown make. It had never smelled as nice as fresh woodwork, but ... it truly has a marvelous action!

In the climate here, the inside of the bowl has started to drown me with an organic odor that reminds me of nothing I want to hold near. It is getting stronger by the minute.

It's most likely the glue. I guess dead horse remains have potential for smelling bad. I don't know. Has anyone had/tackled such a problem?

The only thing that comes to mind is attacking/spraying/washing the inside with something that might kill organisms, counter odors, you know. But a water solution would likely dissolve the glue. Alcohol might attack the finish. I am in a third world country and certainly don't have access to a chemistry lab. Any ideas? What would ordinary strength bleach do to wood and glue?

Thanks!

p.s. In the cooler/drier climate at home, there was just an odd smell you'd catch now and then. The paper strips inside the bowl, and the leftover threads, are stiff from something, other than the golden glue streaks you see everywhere, like the maker painted the inside of the bowl with some solution.

The oud is now on the balcony. I thought a sea breeze might help ... but out of the air conditioning it is getting worse at a Chernobyl rate. This is not going well. Where it's going leaves me without an oud for the rest of the trip. Discarding an oud seems like a sin. Very depressing. Help, please!





Marcus - 6-8-2010 at 11:12 PM

Hi Tony :wavey:

my oud also smells sometimes like...???...BAD!! But it is not a humidity-problem I think. Mine only smells if I play outside in the sun.As soon as I move to shadow it disappears- the smell, not the oud- slowly.
I had the same problem with a small wooden drum before. Dont know if it was the glue or the skin...however.....try to get some cloves,peel an orange, stick the cloves in the orange skin and put it in the bowl...hmmm....if the oud have open soundholes.This may not kill the smell totaly but`ll make it much smoother:
Hope it helps.
Good luck,enjoy your trip!!

P.S.: If it doesn`t work and you cant get rid of the smell, try to hide the oud under your neighbors bed:D

Aymara - 6-9-2010 at 12:10 AM

Hi Tony,

it seems to be the glue. On a german oud page I read about a glue, that is often used in instrument building and has to be fresh before use. If it is only a few days old, it begins to smell badly. The problem is caused by bacteria.

It seems, that this is your problem ... maybe the oud was constructed with old glue. Due to the high humidity the odor comes back.

So the solution would be a desinfectant, but it has to be a gas. I know a product called F10 which is perfect for this task, but it's origin is South Africa (there are distributors in several countries), so though you can get it in the States (try the UK distributor), I fear you can't in Central America.

BTW ... I use F10 myself for my bird cages ... this product is absolutely great. Though it's kills all bacteria, fungal spores and most viruses, it is much softer to human and animal bodies, than most other desinfectants.

In your case, I would use F10 by evaporation. That should help you to get rid of the bacteria easily without doing any harm to the oud's wood.

dubai244 - 6-9-2010 at 02:22 AM


very simple use dudrent ........ :))

fernandraynaud - 6-9-2010 at 05:21 AM

Marcus, your reply is a little like when a guy asks how to kill his mother in law, and somebody says "I have a mother in law too". I fear the time for cloves and oranges and chocolates and flowers is past :D

I can smell the oud from 3 meters away. Playing it is what they call a mixed feeling, they used to say like "my mother in law driving off a cliff in my favorite mercedes". :D In this case I can add .. "and with me in it too."

I had to run the air conditioner for a while. Froze my butt off, but the bacteria are fine. I had a raccoon once. They are so much like humans, they make monkeys look like clowns. My raccoon used to flush objects down the toilet, just to see them go! Anyway, one thing he used to do, infrequently thank God, was to scratch his butt and then sniff his fingers and make a disapproving face with a shiver. That's how I feel when I try to play that oud!

Aymara, yeah, hmm, a German suggests a South African gas ... I'm at the stage of hiring Chemical Ali, but I think he's no longer with us. I fear finding anything like F10 is unlikely: their business telephone directory only lists tours, tortillas and time-share condominiums.
It took me two days, in a city of 200,000, to find a Spanish-English dictionary. You'd think they spoke creole!

A taxi driver took me to a supermarket, a Wallmart, a "papeteria" (up a flight of stairs), a bookstore, and everywhere the same "no se", the same blank look and the same rack of recycled school notebooks, motorcycle magazines, photos of wrestlers and "novella" comic books. What do they bother writing in those notebooks?

There are cultures in which the dictionary is considered unnecessary. At the mention of a dictionary the most chauvinistic people will look at you like you are suggesting they wash their feet! "I KNOW what the words mean, you ... estupido" .... "Disinfeccion? Porqe? my cheekens is ALL cleen, senor! Yes, my seester ees cleen too!"

How about Irradiacion? Well, there are some people who shouldn't fool with nukular stuff.

Dudrent ? what is dudrent?

More ideas, please!



mrkmni - 6-9-2010 at 06:33 AM

That is strange, the oud is supposed to -live- in hot countries.
You should probably ask Mr. Sukar, you have his email on the oud.

littleseb - 6-9-2010 at 06:47 AM

There's only one thing I can think of:
Don't wash for a month. That way your very own odour will probably overshadow the smell of your oud. Just make sure you set up a video link to your live-performances, or you'll sure loose your horde of fans.

David.B - 6-9-2010 at 08:15 AM

:D

Sorry I could resist... But I hope you'll find something better !

175563.jpg - 9kB

fernandraynaud - 6-9-2010 at 08:45 AM

Dear mr mrkmni: 1) this is not a Sukar oud, I noted it was "of unknown make". Sukar ouds have a nice smell of fresh wood. 2) Ouds do fine in hot and dry, yes. Tropical and humid, no. People have all sorts of problems in high humidity. Mr Powell, for instance had his "muy complexo sarouditar" come unglued in Cairo. He's lucky the papier-maché didn't clump into a gump.

Seeking "remedios para tragedia malodorata", I have so far only found "desodorante para flatulencias", under "inventos absurdos", which (as my dictionary is not yet unpacked) I believe means "inventory of our absolutely [best]".

desodoranteFalt.jpg - 45kB desodoranteFlatulencia.jpg - 112kB

http://inventosabsurdos.com/2007/01/13/desodorante-para-flatulencia...

Aymara - 6-9-2010 at 10:14 AM

Quote: Originally posted by fernandraynaud  
... and somebody says "I have a mother in law too".


That might be your chance to sell this oud at a high price. Otherwise you risk being arrested as a biohazzard terrorist, when returning it to the US :D

Quote:
Aymara, yeah, hmm, a German suggests a South African gas


Yes, though I'm an anti-fascist, I do. ;)

To get serious again ... F10 is not a gas, but a highly concentrated fluid, that has to be fluxed with water. But it also kills germs, when evaporated. It is also used by veterinarians to cure respiratory infections in parrots by inhalation, which is much less harmful to the body (organs) of the bird, than the usual pharmaceutical products, which have a lot of negative side effects.

Quote:
How about Irradiacion?


In modern hospitals the operating rooms are irradiated by UV-C lamps to desinfect them ... they are also used in sea water fish tank technique for the same purpose.

But first I doubt, you'll find such a lamp in Central America and second UV-C light is extremely dangerous for every living being, even a few seconds !!! A further problem will be that your oud has rosettes, so it would be very difficult to illuminate the inside of the bowl good enough.

Quote:
Dudrent ? what is dudrent?


Uncle Google says it's a deodorant.

fernandraynaud - 6-9-2010 at 10:57 AM

I'm going to go to a Farmacia in dark glasses today and ask for some sort of poison.

"Por favor, una substanzia totalmente toxica"

We'll see what they suggest.

Aymara - 6-9-2010 at 11:12 AM

Quote: Originally posted by fernandraynaud  
I'm going to go to a Farmacia in dark glasses today and ask for some sort of bio-poison.


That might be a risk, because many products are not harmless to the human body. Good luck.

Ask for quarternary ammonium compound (QAC), which is the main ingrediant of F10 and will help in the same way without risks for humans and animals as far as the fluid doesn't get in contact with mucosa. I'm not shure if you can get that there, but it's worth a try.

PS: A further thought: The odor comes from excrements of bacteria as it seems and it might stay a long time even if the bacteria are eliminated. Though I'm not shure.

PPS: How high is the humidity in your region? If it's above 70% it might be a fungi instead of a bacteria problem. But in both cases F10 and QAC will help to get rid of these bastards. But other products are often developed for only one of them ... bacteria OR fungi.

fernandraynaud - 6-9-2010 at 11:20 AM

Ah, yes, the old quaternary ammonium compounds.

EXCREMENTO DE BACTERIAS??!!! AYI!

At this point it's ruining my oud practice, I'm desperate, I'll try anything, and I'm wondering if a quick rinse with ordinary bleach might not be worth a try?

fernandraynaud - 6-9-2010 at 11:23 AM

It's like humans, with bacteria? They don't so much smell, of themselves, but their outhouses and portable toilets and their dead, that's what smells? What a thought!

I'll be coming home on the autobus with a bag of toxicalia. And a little pine tree shaped thing you hang on the rear view mirror.

Aymara - 6-9-2010 at 11:27 AM

Don't miss my PPS above!

PS: Bleach will harm the wood!

Aymara - 6-9-2010 at 11:34 AM

Hydrogen peroxide might be a further way that is not that risky as other products. You should be able to get that all around the world.

fernandraynaud - 6-9-2010 at 12:52 PM

OK, here is the slowly evolving strategy, in ascending strength: 1) Spray with something like Lysol or something the farmacia offers 2) liquid Hydrogen peroxide using improvised spray bottle or just a quick rinse 3) Chlorine bleach using spray bottle or quick rinse. The oud has 3 soundholes and no shamsa.

Humidity is over 80%. Feels like 100%. Whatever is happening it was there already, it just got worse.

Maybe go right to bleach? dilute the bleach maybe 1/3 and spray the inside of the bowl with it? Dry with a low setting hair dryer. Why would bleach be so harmful? A diluted bleach is very effective against every living thing, and the wood is not living. People use bleach on butcher blocks without destroying the wood.



Aymara - 6-9-2010 at 01:30 PM

Quote: Originally posted by fernandraynaud  
liquid Hydrogen peroxide using improvised spray bottle ...


... is the way I would take, if QAC isn't available, because it's the most harmless choice. It's even used to desinfect open wounds without pain.

Quote:
Humidity is over 80%.


... is a huge downside, because if you spray the wood, how can it dry out at such a high humidity?

Quote:
Whatever is happening it was there already, it just got worse.


Then it are most likely bacteria, but we can't exclude fungi. Regarding a quick Google research hydrogen peroxide kills both. Most other desinfectants only kill bacteria, but no spores ... like alcohol too.

Quote:
People use bleach on butcher blocks without destroying the wood.


Such blocks are usually varnished ... the ouds bowl isn't from the inside. I fear, it might damage the wood or even loosen the glue. I'm not shure.

I think, QAC and HP will work with the least risks.

PS: Be careful with the hair dryer so the wood doesn't warp.

PPS: Regarding a quick research HP might bleach the wood, but it does no harm to the glue.

Jonathan - 6-9-2010 at 01:47 PM

Skip the hair dryer. When the glue gets warm, the joints are going to get loose and pull apart. As tempting as it might seem, I would avoid the hair dryer at all costs.

Based on absolutely nothing at all, I would go with a very light spray of bleach.

Brian Prunka - 6-9-2010 at 07:22 PM

dilute the bleach 50/50. It won't harm the wood as long as you mist it lightly (ie., don't saturate the wood). People use bleach all the time to remove stains from wood.

fernandraynaud - 6-9-2010 at 11:01 PM

Thanks for the ideas so far.

Let me tell you the sequel. I returned from town armed with Lysol, Bleach and Peroxide. The bus ride back was a modern version of the famous "chicken buses". No animals, but boys with cell phones playing donkey gong and what have you. At the speed bumps the driver would close his eyes and pretend his passengers were still sitting, when in fact everyone was airborne. My damaged back was damaged some more. "no suspencion".

Upon arrival, I tried running through the garden to reach the little store at the hotel before it closed, but the little synthetic stream was "closed for the night", meaning the lights were out. The crossing stones were slippery. Visibility mediocre. I slipped, my back gave out and I landed in the pool. It must have been funny, as the hotel ladies laughed as they helped me back on dry land. Fortunately I had left my phone and camera behind. The money and credit cards will dry out OK. The store was closed by the time I reached it. There was no point in changing clothes, the weather was warm, and I was angry, let them suffer the wet man if they must turn off the lights. So everywhere I went I was standing in a pool of water. My proudest moment was entering the dining room and waiting in a growing puddle for the maitre d' to seat me. He pretended he didn't notice. The water dripping off my sleeve at the salad bar was also a fine moment.

In my room, in vengeance, I sprayed the inside of the oud bowl with Lysol, enough to wet the wood, without thoroughly researching the proportions of water and alcohol in the "carrier". It did say it kills "huevos" or was it "hondas" or "hongos". Anyway, that's 'shrooms/fungi, it kills 'em. I'm not feeling friendly towards the oud. If it gets killed too, at this point, I don't care.

I found a corner of the balcony where the sea breeze is concentrated like a sort of wind-tunnel, and propped the instrument there to dry by evaporation. Of course, how much evaporation is a very good question. I could use a desert. A couple of hours later the oud smells better, but feels a little sticky, so I have little choice but to take it inside, turn on the air conditioner and hope for the best.

Anybody who's used Lysol almost vomits at the "fresh scent" promised on the can, a smell that reminds them of countless covered-up horrors. Lysol probably kills nothing, but simulates "the absence of", as if in a field of make-believe chemical flowers. A metaphysical process. The next step, if I can survive the night in a chilly room with a Lysoled oud, will be to find a sprayer-bottle to try a bleach attack.


fernandraynaud - 6-9-2010 at 11:31 PM

I just had a flash of insight into the nature of hell. :D

You know how you can always wait for something to cool off, because there is a "sink" that heat will be pulled to? The same is true of moisture. Things will dry out, because there is a "sink" that absorbs moisture. Well, imagine now a place where there are no "sinks"! Nothing EVER cools down. Nothing EVER dries. Now let us imagine being there with a smelly oud. In other words the most divine and inspiring instrument, but one that has that nagging flaw. You want to play it, but it's so distasteful you end up playing air hockey instead. That's Hell.

:rolleyes:

Aymara - 6-10-2010 at 12:22 AM

Quote: Originally posted by fernandraynaud  
I just had a flash of insight into the nature of hell. :D


Oh man, that all sounds like a nightmare, where Freddy Krüger will be coming around next playing your stinky oud with a knife instead of a risha :D

I wish you the return of luck!

Regarding drying the oud's wood ... maybe it helps to blow with the hair dryer through the sound holes from a greater distance so that the only effect is dry air blowing inside instead of hot air ... the hair dryer reduces the humidity in the blown air drastically.

What do think friends? Might that be worth a try?

alfaraby - 6-10-2010 at 03:08 AM

I have a 1960 oud suffering from the same problem as yours !
Is it possible that 50 years aren't enough time to make this stink fade away ?
I tried some deodorants, but they evaporated leaving the same smell even worse, like using a stick on an unwashed underarms !
I'm tuned to see what comes up from Fernand's trip.

Yours indeed
Alfaraby

Aymara - 6-10-2010 at 04:16 AM

Quote: Originally posted by alfaraby  

Is it possible that 50 years aren't enough time to make this stink fade away?


50 years? That made me do a further research and guess what ... it's not unusual as it seems and also well known between experts, that wood glue can rot under certain conditions and the bad odor is caused by rot bacteria.

HERE I found a german article about art paintings, where glue is used. And there chlorine hydrate is recommended to be mixed in the glue before using it to avoid rotting. I also found a book scan written in old german script, where was told, that the odor of rotten gue could be removed with coffee ... yes, water and coffee.

I think you should do your own research about rotting glue to find further tips.

fernandraynaud - 6-10-2010 at 08:51 AM

50 years. That's a long time to NOT look forward to. That's close to hell. I'm almost resigned to losing this oud.

Adding to the glue BEFORE? And remember Edward Powell's misadventure with liquid hide glue (we don't know regular hide glue would have served him better)? This whole story sheds some light on the popularity of aliphatic resin (synthetic) glues, which, on the other hand, creep under tension and cannot be undone/redone.

Since most instruments don't stink, it's a specific mistake that was made on a few. Like what? Keeping the hide glue too long? Insects in the glue pot? Failure to follow basic toilet hygiene while building an oud? What?

It's ironic, that Alfaraby has an "oud Adani". Alfaraby and I have teased each other about our respective "oud Adani". Alfaraby, dear brother in suffering, somehow I doubt your smelling oud is your "oud Adani", but I ask anyway: is it? If so, we have a legitimate case to take to the United Nations.

The night with the air conditioning was not good. The oud mostly dried out; I feel miserable. The soundboard has risen a little from the moisture, so the bass strings slap it, but that's probably reversible if I EVER get to a place with where things dry out. How does ANYTHING dry out in this God-foresaken place?

On an important front there might be some who would argue that the oud smells "a lot less", but I'm not one of them. This is turning into an obsession. I think about this too much. I'm starting to have increasingly frequent thoughts of smashing it. Occasionally an evil thought comes to the fore: "sell it!". Yes, take it back to the States and sell it. I can probably get what I paid for it. The guy who sold it to me seemed like he was OK with ANY price. Now I think I understand. If you ever take this oud to a humid place, and it "flowers" on you, even if you return to the desert, and it calms down, you will always smell it in your mind, and you will never love it again! The only option is to pass the cursed oud on to another naive player.

Alfaraby is right. It's like deodorant on sweaty underarms. But Chris has made a discovery. Coffee is used to neutralize smells. Like in perfumery, they keep cans of coffee around to re-zero the nose. Even in perfume stores. So one idea is to just put coffee beans in the oud for now. Once I get back to civilization, I have many options, leading up to "disposing of it". This last term covers a range of solutions, from a muddy swim in the swamp among the snakes and alligators, to Christmas time firewood, or being smashed on stage as part of an "art piece", to a swift merciful blow against a cement structure, all the way to a glamorous presentation on e-bay: "A work of art! be SURE to get it!"

Of course I should find the guy who sold it to me, and leave it on his doorstep. You know, like a story from 1001 nights, a bad dream, the oud Jinn who ALWAYS returns home.

I still have 4 days to try to live with it. Try coffee beans and keep playing? Or attack it with chlorine bleach? Just put a paper bag on its head and call it "habibi"?


odorneutralizetech.gif - 11kB

Aymara - 6-10-2010 at 09:41 AM

Quote: Originally posted by fernandraynaud  
Try coffee beans and keep playing?


Coffee grounds might be more "powerful" than beans, I think.

This is definitely what I would try first, because there's no risk for further "damage".

alfaraby - 6-10-2010 at 01:40 PM

Quote: Originally posted by fernandraynaud  
Alfaraby, dear brother in suffering, somehow I doubt your smelling oud is your "oud Adani", but I ask anyway : is it ?

Absolutely not ! "Adani" smelled just as fresh as wood should. Was it the Adani that stink, I think I would have smash it on cement floor decades ago :D !
The smelly is a rare piece of art of an outstanding maker, whom I shall not reveal for the man's reputation sake . I can't smash it, neither sell it, nor give it back or away . It sounds like heaven and whenever I play it, I almost hear ABDO NAHAT moans in his grave. The oud is a real fortune, therefor I have to preserve it .
I can't choose coffee because of the fine rosette condition. Once I try to remove it, it shall crack down into pieces. I couldn't find F10 around either, so I shall wait to see what would you do Fernand , and follow in your footsteps , if you'll let me !

Aymara : Thanks for the advices .

Waiting
Alfaraby

Aymara - 6-10-2010 at 02:10 PM

Quote: Originally posted by alfaraby  
I couldn't find F10 around either, ...


There is no distributor in Canada or USA ... try UK.

PS: The UK shop redirects US and Canada customers HERE.

But I think F10 only kills the bacteria and doesn't remove the odor. Maybe just cover the oud with some coffee beans, after the bacteria is killed.

Oh ... btw ... F10 itself is odorless, if you buy the original ... stay away from the pine fragrance variant.

PPS: Don't buy a liter or so ... 100ml are more than enough, because it's a concentrate you have to mix with water. And buy the concentrate and not the ready to use bottle, because you need different concentrations depending of the need ... bacteria, fungi or viruses.

fernandraynaud - 6-11-2010 at 01:34 PM

The first stage of the anti-odor attack was the Lysol. I don't know what's in it, but alcohol and water are the "base". So when I sprayed the inside of the bowl it got wet enough I had to look for a way to dry it. The air conditioner helped a lot. Was the smell gone? No. Was it less? yes. Was it acceptable? No.

Yesterday I got to sit in a cigar maker's seat and make a couple of cigars. They had coffee too. I got 1/4 Kg of ground coffee beans.

So the next step was to throw about 100 grams of ground coffee in the oud. And shake and shake. That helped a lot. I can see that what Chris found is quite relevant. I cannot say if the coffee by itself would have done it, but after the Lysol, it's a victory. I have to search in memory to try to recall the smell. It's gone, the coffee seems to eat it. So the question is how you approach it in Alfaraby's case. I think there have to be two parts, one to kill, the other to deodorize. So what I would do if I could not reach inside is to get some sort of vaporiser to make a fog, and get it in the oud through a hole in the shamsa. In the liquid I think that chlorine bleach 50% with water should work, maybe weaker. If something like F10 or Lysol is available, it should work too. They have vaporisers for asthma etc. And then I would make a very very strong coffee extract and vaporise it in there too. Maybe there are ways to make coffee so the color is light but the essences are strong? I don't know.

My remaining problem is that the soundboard has swollen, probably from the lysol adventure, maybe just from the ambient humidity, and I don't know if I can expect it to go back down. Do I need to wait for dryer climate, or is there a trick I can try here? Might it never return to the old shape? Does anyone have experience with the spooning soundboard effect?

You can see how much it has risen, maybe 1 cm, certainly more than 1/2 cm. Are there any known tricks for quickly absorbing humidity? Run hot air from the hair dryer through it?

I think I'm going to try to sell the oud here, as all instruments are horribly expensive, apparently due to high duties. Absurd prices. And nothing made locally. Ibanez bass: $1350. Mexican Fender guitar: $1400. Of course they have never imagined, let alone seen, an oud. i will have to explain it is muy popular in America!






Img_8445m.jpg - 75kB

Aymara - 6-11-2010 at 02:22 PM

Quote: Originally posted by fernandraynaud  
I cannot say if the coffee by itself would have done it, but after the Lysol, it's a victory.


It's a two step process. First you have to kill the bacteria, but after that the odor still remains, because it's caused by their metabolite. So the next step is to get rid of the odor. I don't know how exactly it works, but as it seems coffee binds the odorous substances.

Quote:
So the question is how you approach it in Alfaraby's case.


First I would buy F10 and make a F10 water mixture of 1:125, which is the highest concentration for viruses. I'd do that because I wouldn't want contact of the fluid with the oud. But F10 would evaporate at room temperature, if the humidity isn't to high in the room ... maybe max. 50%. If he puts the F10 mixture in a bowl and places the oud's soundhole above it, the F10 gas would reach and kill the bacteria over a time of several days. See picture.

After the bacteria are killed, he could fill in coffee "powder" through the rosette holes, which can be shaken out later ... the rest might be removed with a vacuum cleaner and a thin tube ... if that fits through the rosette holes.

Quote:
Do I need to wait for dryer climate, or is there a trick I can try here?


Do you remeber silica gel (rubin gel)? It's used to keep electronic dry, for example condenser microphones. It binds humidity and keeps it low.

But I bet you can't buy it in Central America?

Quote:
Might it never return to the old shape?


You should open a new discussion about this question, so our luthiers notice it.

Quote:
Run hot air from the hair dryer through it?


If the distance is high enough, you could blow warm (but not hot) air into the soundhole ... this air is very dry and will bind humidity. But as you know, this is a bit risky.

Discuss that with our luthiers.

f10-evaporation.jpg - 36kB

fernandraynaud - 6-12-2010 at 12:19 AM

Chris, I HAD F10 all sorts of options would exist. Let's see if Alfaraby thinks he can get some. If he cannot, it's harder. But let's assume for a moment he can order 100ml from that English place.

I can't imagine the 1:125 F10 dilution being necessary. Since it is so harmless and non-toxic, why not let the vapor form from pure concentrated F10? Who needs the extra water? Why do you think it should not contact the oud? I also don't understand when you say it's a gas, because quaternary amines as I recall are highly polar, i.e. water soluble, and solids even? But I know nothing about this product.

We don't know anything about coffee's "mechanism of action", but it IS widely used as a scent-neutralizer. At the cigar place they use it to "clear the palate" when tasting cigars. Same thing in perfumeries.

I think if I had F10 I would wet the ground coffee with F10 and work it into Alfaraby's oud through holes in the shamsa. Then shake the oud so the damp coffee sticks to the insides. Let it sit until the coffee is all dry, it will fall off the wood, then get it all out with shaking and a vacuum cleaner. Maybe leave some in the oud. I rather think I'll leave some coffee in my formerly-smelly oud, as insurance. And it smells nice! What is interesting is that all trace of the Lysol smell is gone too. It just smells like wood and coffee! Amazing! THANK YOU CHRIS!!!

In my case spraying with Lysol was extreme, I was so desperate. It caused the soundboard to spoon. If I were starting over I would wet ground coffee with Lysol as above. If I had no Lysol, I would try another disinfectant, like Chlorine bleach, but clearly not ON the coffee, that would devour the coffee, and probably destroy its odor-neutralizing compounds.

Let's see what Alfaraby tells us, what he can and cannot obtain, and his thoughts.

p.s. I offered the oud at a decent price to the music store in town. They thought about it, but decided they could NEVER sell it. It's quite a bit as if someone walked into a European music store with a Tricordio, which is a Central American instrument they did have, mandolin-sized, fretted, with 4 courses, each one with 3 strings, hence the name. I'm not too keen on plinky soprano instruments, or I would offer a trade, as it was one of the cheaper items in the store. But anyway, they did not buy the oud.




Aymara - 6-12-2010 at 10:28 AM

Quote: Originally posted by fernandraynaud  

I can't imagine the 1:125 F10 dilution being necessary.


The concentration is lower, when it becomes a gas ... and F10 is that cheap, that it doesn't matter much ;)

Quote:
Since it is so harmless and non-toxic, why not let the vapor form from pure concentrated F10?


That would be a waste and it might be similar to alcohol ... 70% is better to kill bacteria than 90%. So why should I use it pure, when 1:125 or even 1:250 has the same effect?

Quote:
Why do you think it should not contact the oud?


Because then I don't need to dry the wood ;) And who knows, if it makes spots, loosens the glue or something else, we should avoid. The gas will do what we want, so why risk anything?

Quote:
I also don't understand when you say it's a gas, because quaternary amines as I recall are highly polar, i.e. water soluble, and solids even?


I'm not an chemistry expert ... I only can tell you that it works as a gas. It's an insider tip amongst veterinarians to let parrots inhale F10, who are infected with aspergillosis, a very toxic and life threatening fungi illness of the respiratory system. I also used it this way for my parakeets, when they had another less harmful respiratory desease and the symptoms were gone after only two days.

Quote:
But I know nothing about this product.


It relatively new (a few years), but the best desinfection product I know, very effective, but less harmful and much cheaper than others. It even kills the avian influenca virus without problems. All the chickens and geese that were killed in fear of this disease could have been cured with F10 ... no joke.

Quote:
I think if I had F10 I would wet the ground coffee with F10 and work it into Alfaraby's oud through holes in the shamsa.


That might introduce too much humidity inside the bowl and the coffee might be glued to the wood ... and what does wet coffee? Yes, it creates brown spots ... I think Alfaraby wouldn't be pleased, if the sign of the luthier inside the bowl would get coffee spots.

Quote:
In my case spraying with Lysol was extreme, ...


Yes, and I got really shocked, when I read, what you had done. I feared, that something unwanted would happen.

Quote:
I offered the oud at a decent price to the music store in town. They thought about it, but decided they could NEVER sell it.


Show them videos of Speed Caravan :D Make the oud popular in Central America and import more ... LOL

fernandraynaud - 6-12-2010 at 11:38 AM

In my case spraying with Lysol was extreme, ...

Yes, and I got really shocked, when I read, what you had done. I feared, that something unwanted would happen.

I thought the oud was incurable, and I was close to smashing it. But I also thought the wood, if it stretched, would shrink again in the dryer climate at home.

I rather think the coffee cannot work just dry dry dry. That's why it seems moistening it with a f10 solution might be a good way to do both jobs. I don't mean soaking. I don't think it would even stain. On my oud the coffee stuck to the bowl at first, but left no marks, and then it dried and stopped adhering. But we are all just experimenting. The important thing is, that thanks to you, we have the ultimate weapon: coffee. Where did you read about this?

Futbol, USA contra Ingleterra! The USA barely has a chance against one of the best teams in the world. Since in the US hardly anyone plays futbol, the US team is brave indeed. Futbol, or "soccer" as it is called, is a snobbish sport that has become popular in private schools, if you can imagine playing polo. It is not a sport of the masses, very few people play it or watch it. I remember playing futbol as a kid in France, they would shout "Cor-nerrr", and I had no idea what it meant. I never could adapt to American "football" in which the mass of the players plays a determining role. I don't understand why they don't turn up the violence a bit, give the players baseball bats, or let them kung-fu each other.





Aymara - 6-12-2010 at 12:06 PM

Quote: Originally posted by fernandraynaud  
But I also thought the wood, if it stretched, would shrink again in the dryer climate at home.


I think it will shrink, when drying, but I fear not as much as you wish. Ask Dr. Oud and the other luthiers about it.

Quote:
I rather think the coffee cannot work just dry dry dry.


It should, but I'm not 100% shure.

PS: The housewife besides me says, dry coffee works and to get rid of the moisture fill in dry noodles ;)

Quote:
Where did you read about this?


I found an old pharmacy article written in old german lettering in google books. Regarding the lettering I expect that it was written before World War II.

Quote:
..., or "soccer" as it is called, is a snobbish sport ...


In Europe it's THE sport of the masses ... I myself find it boring, though the world cup is more interesting. My sport is the Nürburgring, the world's greatest race track, the "Grüne Hölle" ;) I especially like oldtimer races. But currently I watch "24 hours of Le Mans" on TV ... that's more thrilling than soccer.

alfaraby - 6-12-2010 at 04:00 PM

I my case, I wouldn't put this specific oud on any risk whatsoever. It's, as aforesaid, a rare highly valuable oud, but it's fragile and weak, so I'd never dare to let it face humidity, let alone WATER !!! I shall have to look for dry gases only to kill the tiny bastards first, then try the dry ground coffee to kill the odor left behind, then shake it out or have it vacuumed out with a tube; but never, I mean never, use any sort of wet mixtures whatsoever ... not even coffee based.
The problem though is the rosette. It's very fine and has thick woofs and kind of stitches. But ground coffee can be eased out the narrow holes anyway.

My question however is : is there any kind of "gases" that might kill the bacteria, that can be found in a pharmacy or a drugstore ? Once the enemy is gone, we'll manage to clean our home easily afterwards, with coffee or without .
I'm not really contributing anything of value to this debate, so excuse my ignorance... I got B` in Chemistry in high school & never rehearsed it since then ;)

Anyhow, thanks for the helpful thoughts

As for football : Do you know wh said why run after one ball - get one for each player ? :))

Yours indeed
Alfaraby

Aymara - 6-12-2010 at 10:56 PM

Quote: Originally posted by alfaraby  
I wouldn't put this specific oud on any risk whatsoever.


That's exactly, what I expected.

Regarding your question about a dry gas:

If you do the procedure in winter you can use F10 without any risk. If I remember it right, you live in New York, where you will use a heater to warm up your appartment. And as we all know, heaters dry out the air, so that owners of valuable instruments need to take care to raise the humidity to a level of around 50%. Without that care, it would be around 30% in winter ... much too low.

And that's where F10 comes into place again. You use a F10-water mixture instead of pure water to raise the humidity.

That should be the easiest method without any risk, when done in a small room and the humidity is controlled by a hygrometer.

Regarding the coffee ... I would use dry coffee grounds. As you already wrote yourself, you can even fill it in through a very fine rosette and shake it out later. If a bit of coffee remains inside, who cares, it does no harm and avoids further odors.

If you want to get absolutely shure, that everything will work as expected, ask several luthiers about my recommendation and/or try it out with a piece of wood first.

PS: F10 gas in the room will not harm humans or animals, if not used over extremely long periods of time (e.g. years). My sweetheart is an asthmatic, who got always problems, when handling desinfactants. Not so with F10. Unbelievable, but true. F10 is only a problem, when the fluid comes in contact with eyes.

Quote: Originally posted by alfaraby  

As for football : Do you know wh said why run after one ball - get one for each player ? :))


That's why i prefer motorsport ... everybody's got his/her own car :D

fernandraynaud - 6-14-2010 at 11:33 AM

I will mention one more thing for people who are struggling with an oud that smells very bad. The combination of a disinfectant (Lysol) and then throwing fresh ground coffee in the bowl helped a lot. Wetting the wood may have its own consequences. But as the coffee loses its aroma, the old oud smell sneaks back in. Not terrible, but recognizable if you've smelled it before. So it seems coffee absorbs odors, but the original cause might in time overpower the coffee, or the coffee lose its power. This is clearly a very powerful something. In any case leaving ground coffee in the oud seems necessary, and maybe empty it and load up with fresh coffee periodically. That suggests something more might be needed, so we are not "done" with the problem. Maybe Aymara's F10 will finish the job ...



Aymara - 6-14-2010 at 11:58 AM

Quote: Originally posted by fernandraynaud  
Maybe Aymara's F10 will finish the job ...


I bet it will ;)

I think, your problem is the climate and the remaining moisture in the wood. It seems, Lysol didn't kill all bacteria and due to the good conditions they grow rapidly again.

fernandraynaud - 6-17-2010 at 04:45 PM

Alfaraby, I have some disturbing news. I just spoke to Hank Levin, who's a serious oud technician and who has dealt with museum ouds with the dreaded smell. He pointed out the obvious, which is that the rotting glue is getting weaker as it rots, until it fails altogether. He has seen several instruments like that and says it might be smart to reglue it. It doesn't sound like any treatment is likely to penetrate deep enough, if the glue is rotting from the inside, that makes sense. What he would do with your museum piece is take it apOart and reglue it back together. I don't suppose there's any particular hurry, as long as you can stand the smell; if it starts to let go, you can always do it then.

Mine is smelling much better in my home climate, where humidity bounces often daily from 25 to 75% (and that explains why my nylon strings so often rise in pitch!). I'll be trying your suggested fix when I get a chance, mostly using heat, maybe just a little dampening, since Hank also thinks wetting the braces is very likely to cause them to pop off.

I had an opportunity on my flight home. The flight was very full and they were confiscating carry-on guitars etc to put them in baggage. The oud was in a flimsy soft case, and I was SO tempted to let them have it, it surely would have been smashed, and they would have had to pay insurance, a clear profit. But I wasn't sure how well such claims worked, and something else was holding me back, something like "holy oud, my precioussss", and so I said it was small, and precious, and they found a spot for it. Oh, well, stupid oud lover.



Aymara - 6-17-2010 at 11:43 PM

Quote: Originally posted by fernandraynaud  
He pointed out the obvious, which is that the rotting glue is getting weaker as it rots, until it fails altogether.


Mmh, that's bad news, but also interesting. Might it be, that the bacteria are eating the glue? If yes, then there might be chances to slow down or even stop the rotting process by killing these little beasts.

fernandraynaud - 6-18-2010 at 02:24 AM

Yes, but it's doubtful you can get any treatment to penetrate into a thick body of hardened glue, and the decay cannot likely be halted.

If a hide glue is made fresh in the glue pot every day it generally will not rot. But for other organic substances, this includes the black dots on tablas, the smart makers generally add copper sulphate or other poisons to prevent creatures like <b>rooster</b>roaches and bacteria from developing an interest.

Anyway, the prognosis for an instrument whose glue is rotting is not good unless you dismantle it and glue it afresh.



alfaraby - 6-18-2010 at 10:42 AM

Quote: Originally posted by fernandraynaud  
the rotting glue is getting weaker as it rots, until it fails altogether

Thanks Fernand & friends
Does this process take half a century to take place ?
I doubt it, because my oud smelled just fine untill last year !
Could it be the storage that let the bacteria sneak in ?

Yours indeed
Alfaraby

Aymara - 6-18-2010 at 11:25 AM

Quote: Originally posted by alfaraby  

Does this process take half a century to take place ?


Interesting question. I think it depends ... the better the environment for the bacteria, the faster the rotting.

F10 will build up a very bad environment for these little beasts and definitely slow down the process, but who knows, maybe even stops it, as long as the bacteria didn't get too deep into the material.

Quote:
Could it be the storage that let the bacteria sneak in ?


What kind of storage and for how long?

alfaraby - 6-18-2010 at 11:32 PM

What kind of storage and for how long ?

In a hard case in a closet for a couple of years & out only for hours to play, once on a while, then back there !!
Is this wrong ?

Thanks Chris

Yours indeed
Alfaraby

Aymara - 6-19-2010 at 12:08 AM

Quote: Originally posted by alfaraby  

In a hard case in a closet for a couple of years & out only for hours to play, once on a while, then back there !!
Is this wrong ?


Mmh ... some luthiers even recommend storing the oud in a hard case, when not played, but I think, under the assumption, that it is played regularly?

If you talk to woodworkers, they might tell you that wood needs to "breath".

The question is, might there be something wrong with the hardcase or the closet?

I would definitely buy F10 and first use it on the hardcase and then dry it again. Here you can spray the inside slightly with F10 without any risk (don't wet it too much), let it "operate" closed for half an hour and dry it with a hair dryer, that is not too hot. An alternative approach would be to put a piece of cloth soaked with F10 on a piece of plastic bag inside the closed hardcase for half an hour so that F10 will operate as a gas. After that, I would use it on the oud as a gas as described above.

I my opinion you have a good chance to solve the problem this way and if not, the problem will be that worse as Fernand reported ... complete reglueing ... unbelievable, what this would cost.

But maybe discuss my recommendations with several luthiers before you act. The question is, how deep the bacteria got into the material after one year.

fernandraynaud - 6-19-2010 at 01:48 AM

A couple of recommendations I read said an oud should be out, enjoying the air, and never stored in it's case. That's what you'd call "counterintuitive", but it makes sense, in retrospect.

I continue to be amazed at how delicate a balance an oud is, the tension of the strings against the bridge and soundboard, like a living thing, a bird in flight. That's why I love the simplicity of that Sukar neck adjustment, it's right in line with the oud's dynamic tension, like a sailboat under full sail.

Hank Levin was saying that the soundboard on many modern Turkish ouds is no thicker than the cardboard they pack shirts with, and if you ship them under full string tension, any impact tends to shear the soundboard across the grain! Whoa! And the play of humidity is so intense!

I can understand that you would want to protect your antique. But it's as if equilibrium with the environment were the only possible defense. And you don't find a lot of 400 year old ouds, or lutes. Maybe if your glue only started to spoil you have a good chance with some sort of fumigation, and Chris' F10 sounds like a very good idea. But my Adani seemed ok until the central American humidity woke up the buggers. My wife picked up on it the minute I brought it home, she had a crib with bad glue as a child, and they had to burn it, she's sensitized to the odor. She had diplomatically asked if I didn't think it had a strange "something" to it :D

I'm too lazy to lock my instruments down, anyway. I leave my instruments on those metal "A stands", scattered all over, ready to pick up and play. If space were a problem, I'd get those wall "forks".


FastForward - 7-21-2010 at 11:02 AM

Fernandraynaud, I just ran into this and thought it might useful in your case

http://www.frets.com/FRETSPages/Luthier/Quickies/RiceClean/riceclea...

Hope it works.

Ibrahim...