Jameel - 7-8-2005 at 07:31 PM
VIDEO TUTORIAL
Step 1: Score the peg shaft.
In order to have a clean line when shaping the peg it's a good idea to slightly score the peg shaft right under the bead where it meets the shaft.
Step 2: Shape the peg shaft.
This is a Herdim peg shaper. They cost about $100, but it's a great tool and well worth the money if you're ever going to refit at least one set of
pegs. I find it easier to clamp the peg head in a vise and turn the shaper instead of turning the peg, it also yields a smoother cut, in my
experience. This particular shaper has 4 sizes, all very slighly different. I usually use one of the middle two. I've found that a larger peg shaft
turns smoother, but a smaller peg shaft provides easier tuning since it has to be turned more to raise or lower the pitch. To set the taper of the
blade on the shaper, put the reamer in the tapered hole (smooth side up) and slide the shaper's blade over to the smooth reamer shaft and tighten it
down. Now the shaper cuts the exact same taper as the reamer. Remove the reamer by turning it counter-clockwise so the cutting edges aren't damaged.
Slow down and be very careful when approaching the beads, it's easy to cut them off! Aim for a consistent pressure while rotating the shaper. The
blades are very sharp and cut very smoothly. Let the tool do the work
Step 3: Ream the hole.
--Note-- If your peg box holes are too large, you'll need to ream the holes and plug them (glue them in) with special tapered plugs, or make your own
with dowel rod and the shaper. If the old pegs are decent wood, you can even glue these in, just make sure they fit well. Then drill new holes and
proceed.
Start reaming the hole and check the fit often so you don't ream too much. Take your time-don't force the reamer-clean the shavings from the grooves
regularly, it will work better. You can also check the diameter of the large end of the peg and find the same spot on the reamer and mark it so you
don't over ream.
Step 4: Check the fit and ream more if necesary.
Step 5: Burnish to check fit.
When you get to the spot you like (since the pegbox is usually tapered, the pegs toward the tip will need to go further in so all the pegs protrude
from the pegbox the same amount--for a nice look) spin the peg a few times to burnish the contact area. Also feel if the peg has the same amount of
resistance for the entire revolution. If it gets easy then stiff, easy then stiff, the peg is not round or the hole is not round. (If you shaped and
reamed well, this won't happen). Inspect the shaft. If there are two equally shiny bands that go completely around the shaft your peg is fit. If not,
you need to maybe readjust your shaper blade's taper.
Step 6: Add a little peg compound.
Rub a little peg compound (you can get this at any violin or music shop) on the shiny bands and test the fit again. This well tell you to a greater
degree the accuracy of the job.
Step 7: Chek the fit some more.
You can see that the shiny bands are more pronouced and go completely around the shaft. This is what you are looking for.
Step 8: Polish the peg
I sand the peg shaft a little with 600 grit (this fine grit won't change it's shape, unless you go hog wild and spend the whole afternoon on it!) and
apply a little paste wax and buff it so the shaft has a nice look to it. Not like raw wood.
Step 9: Apply beeswax
At this point the peg fits so well that it might grip too much and when turned you can hear it squeak as it turns in minute "grippy jerks". This is no
good for fine tuning. We need to apply some type of lubricant for smooth turning, but not some thing that will cause slippage. Nature's perfect
solution: beeswax. Put a little 100% beeswax (get from a honey producer or from a craft store, or a 100% beeswax candle--it has to be 100% beeswax, no
paraffin) on the shiny bands and work it in with your finger a little. Put the peg back. Smooth, firm turning with no chatter or slippage.
SamirCanada - 7-8-2005 at 08:42 PM
NOW.... Thats what I call professionalism
I have no words powerfull enough to describe your talent and drive.
Salam Edeik ya Jameel
Thank you verry much for that tutorial.. I dont think it can be any clearer.
Jay - 7-27-2005 at 05:08 PM
Wow Jameel thanks for the tutorial... excellent, clear presentation.
Did you use the Herdim shaper on your first oud? I've seen a machined-aluminum adjustable shaper for about 1/3 the price of the Herdims, but I'm just
afraid it will be about 1/3 as accurate too. Have you heard anything about these models and how they perform? My pegs aren't very uniform in size, so
I think I'll need the shaper to fit them. I wonder if I should try one of the cheaper ones or just suck it up and invest in the German model. Any
advice?
cheers
Jay
Jameel - 7-28-2005 at 03:25 AM
Thanks, Jay. I did not use it on the first oud. Violin pegs generally come pre-tapered, but the taper is not as consistent as when using a peg shaper.
You can get by futzing with sanding the high spots as Dr. Oud describes, but for me it's a lot quicker and more accurate to use the shaper. I couldn't
tell you about the aluminum peg shaper, I've never used one. Try the MIMF Forum, you may find your answer there. You can make your own peg shaper
fairly easily.
http://www.hurdygurdy.com/progress/290702_peg_shaper.htm
I'd just use a hand-plane blade instead of messing with the tempering process.
Let us know how it "turns out" 
palestine48 - 7-28-2005 at 07:58 AM
how do u drill the holes for the strings?
Jameel - 7-28-2005 at 08:59 AM
With a drill. Power or hand would work fine.
Elie Riachi - 8-6-2005 at 02:11 PM
Adding to Jameel's reply, Be sure to clamp down the box before drilling. Holes are drilled smaller than the tapered end of the peg.
Nice job Jameel.
Jameel - 10-30-2006 at 05:57 AM
In updating my website, I seem to have deleted this file. Does anyone happen to have a copy they could send me? Thanks.
SamirCanada - 10-30-2006 at 06:28 AM
Of course!!
I sent it at khalaf_oud@mchsi.com
Jameel - 10-30-2006 at 06:50 AM
Thanks Samir!