I have just finished revamping my workshop a little and I came up with a bending Iron which I finaly got around to making. Since I am done school now
and working full time I will have some time to mess around after work on my project ouds. Here is the pic.SamirCanada - 6-25-2008 at 12:47 PM
I know its ugly but it works and it works really nice!
now I have to make a mold.
any sugestions?
what material should I use?
what about the making the bulkheads flat?abusin - 6-25-2008 at 01:01 PM
Salam Samir,
I am sure it will turn out as a stunner, minak nit3alam khaiu wa rabna uwafikak
all the best of luck buddy,
way to go my friend, as bro Mike voices it
Regards,
Awadveyselmaster - 6-26-2008 at 12:16 PM
good lucky samiroudplayer - 6-26-2008 at 12:41 PM
hey samir
nice good work. i cant wait to see it, maybe make a women oud for you soon to be lol
anyhow ttyl
thx sammyjdowning - 6-26-2008 at 12:47 PM
Nice tidy workshop Samir!
You have seen the two types of mold that I use for lutes - solid and bulkhead type. If you intend to build an oud with semicircular (rather than
flattened profile) then Richard Hankey's "no mold" solution might be the best way to go - and with much less work. For lute molds, I flatten the mold
sections where the ribs contact the mold but others simple leave the profile rounded and compensate accordingly.SamirCanada - 6-26-2008 at 01:22 PM
I am thinking making a mold would be worth wile john since I could use it to better guide me while making the back. Plus its re-usable so why not make
one. I would feel more confident I think with one. I dont know if I would be able to be as accurate without the mold.
I think I will make one with drawn lines and squared bulkheads.jdowning - 6-26-2008 at 01:53 PM
The 'no mold' solution should give a bit more freedom but the important thing to remember is that - mold or no mold - the ribs should not be forced
into place with clamps, pins etc but should be carefully and precisely bent so that they fit together correctly. This way any built in stresses -
which might cause problems later, both structurally and possibly acoustically - can be reduced or eliminated. Take time to get the fit correct without
any forcing - no gaps in the rib joints - especially at the neck block end. Be prepared to scrap ribs that do not fit well, if necessary. Do not start
out trying to get a bowl completed in a day, like a professional might, but target, for a maximum of one well fitted rib a day. Speed comes with
experience but is not a virtue in itself unless you have to make a living as a luthier.
I use molds because I am trying to replicate the exact geometry of a particular original lute that I want to copy - otherwise I might go for the 'no
mold' approach and accept any slight variations in geometry that may result.Jameel - 6-26-2008 at 02:55 PM
Alright Samir! Looking forward to watching this one....SamirCanada - 6-26-2008 at 07:56 PM
Ok so I got the peg box almost done.
I found something out about my bending Iron.
I made a big mistake. I used a porcelain socket made to host a 100 watt light bulb but I put a 200 watt in there.
oopa!
I started smelling smoke. Georges29 ( forum member) was at my house at the moment.
I dont know the extent of the damage yet but thank god there was no fire or anything.
I have a feeling some of the wiring may have melted and I will make sure there is no danger before attempting to heat it again.
Thanks for the advice John. I may go with the no mold but instead use one peice of ply wood that use as a guide at the highest point of the bowl.
Jameel! nice to hear from you I was beginning to worry what may have happened to you.
Question Jameelo... will a 100 watt light bulb work?carpenter - 6-26-2008 at 10:22 PM
<< I may go with the no mold but instead use one peice of ply wood that use as a guide at the highest point of the bowl. >>
That approach worked fine for me.George29 - 6-27-2008 at 02:09 AM
Now where would the fun be without a few 'gotchas' along the way. I'm sure with your drive and enthusiasm that you will build one very fine Oud.
I look forward to seeing this progress. Best of Luck!!Jameel - 6-27-2008 at 03:14 AM
Yikes Samir! Be careful. You might get away with a 100, just try one and see if it gets the iron hot enough. I'm paranoid about fire, so I always turn
off the bulb if I leave the shop.jdowning - 6-27-2008 at 03:30 AM
Sounds like you were using standard plastic coated wiring which cannot withstand the heat? The wiring would best have insulation designed for high
temperature operation - the kind of stuff found in electric toasters - with a woven fireproof fabric sleeve. You might be able to purchase porcelain
sockets already prewired with the correct wire?
I have never tried using a light bulb as a heat source but wonder if there is a risk of the bulb fracturing in service due to being confined within
the bending iron tube and overheating. What is your experience here Jameel?jdowning - 6-27-2008 at 04:38 AM
Also, be sure to use a 'grounded' electrical circuit for safety - that is it should be a three wire system (3 pin plug) with the ground wire directly
connected to the metal tube of your bending iron (as well as any other exposed metal parts enclosing the wiring). This will prevent you being
electrocuted should the wiring insulation fail and the bare wires contact the metalwork of the bending iron - the current flowing safely to ground
though the ground wire instead of through your body. With a standard circuit voltage of 115 volts, your circuit is passing about 1.7 amps with a 200
watt load which is sufficient to be dangerous to your health under certain conditions.Christian1095 - 6-30-2008 at 08:29 AM
Good luck.. Hey, since you're in Canada, you should make your first Oud from Maple DaveH - 6-30-2008 at 08:44 AM
Hey Samir
Sorry about the bending iron - minor setback. Do heed john's advice about the grounding though - wires and bare metal make me skittish, mainly because
I've managed to do exactly what John warns against, and with a good old British 240v whack. That woke me up. But as the man says, 115 is still
dangerous.
Hey, good luck with the whole project. Sounds like you've got somewhere already. You can't go wrong with the experts here peering over your shoulder,
and you can't turn back either, now you've gone public. Not without losing a lot of face, anyway
Anyway, kudos to you for biting the bullet and starting this project. Can't wait to see the results and I'm even toying with the idea myself (someday
:rolleyes.SamirCanada - 6-30-2008 at 09:27 AM
out of maple would be nice but people around here have the nasty habit of putting holes in it just to see if any syrup would pour out.
The neck will probably be made out of maple.
thanks for the encouragement. I havent gotten much done over the weekend but I should progress this week. and like say there is no turning back now...Mike - 6-30-2008 at 12:12 PM
Looking forward to following this project buddy!jdowning - 6-30-2008 at 01:56 PM
Nice one Mike - but my favourite is this image - the simplest of tools but the signature of an ultimate craftsman. Any adequate heat source will do
for bending - electric heat gun, electric fire bar, open flame etc but best to stick with more controllable devices - at least until you have built a
hundred or so instruments.
Way to go Samir.Peyman - 6-30-2008 at 04:18 PM
Mike - 7-1-2008 at 07:58 PM
Great picture JD! That's one of the three masters who came out of the Gamil Georges shop on Mo Ali Street in Cairo.SamirCanada - 7-2-2008 at 09:09 AM
Question...
for the first rib. I was planning to make it to stick as close as possible to the prescribed outline but I wasnt going to be finicky about it being
absolutely identical to the template I have.
I was actualy going to use that first rib and make it the template to follow for the rest of the ribs.
is that a good Idea?
Also for the neck block. when I draw out the pencil lines for the ribs to fit. should I make each section flat for better surface bonding or should it
be left rounded?
Also since the bending Iron as been redisgned to allow heat to escape from the back which is something that it didnt do before it was compleetly
sealed. Also I have refited it with a 200 what socket.
Also for joining the rib edges... what is the overall best way? using an inverted jointer plane? ( the biggest i have is a jack plane will it work?
)
or using the sand paper on flat glass technique ? if so what grit should I use?
lots of Q's I know... but I need some enlightement.carpenter - 7-2-2008 at 11:06 AM
<< I was actualy going to use that first rib and make it the template to follow for the rest of the ribs. is that a good Idea? >>
If it's right to begin with. Accumulated Error will rise up and smite thee.
I have one half-rib cut pattern cut from thin wood; I draw a centerline on the blank, draw the half (with the flat edge of the pattern on the
centerline), flip the pattern over, and draw the other. Then I know at least it's symmetrical, even if it's extra work. (I have so many opportunities
to mess up that I'll take 'close-to-certain' wherever I can get it.)
I liked the sandpaper on glass just fine - I used 150 grit sticky-back, but I've used regular sandpaper and spray adhesive before. Roll it down flat
with something. A plane would give a better surface (maybe), but cut lots of extra ribs for practice pieces. The longer the sole, the better.
<< That's one of the three masters who came out of the Gamil Georges shop on Mo Ali Street in Cairo. >>
<< draw the half (with the flat edge of the pattern on the centerline), flip the pattern over, and draw the other>>
oooh. Great Idea!! I will do just that.
I will try with the plane and see if works. otherwise I have plenty of sandpaper.carpenter - 7-2-2008 at 11:31 AM
Don't forget that the direction you're planing in will change with the grain.
<< oooh. Great Idea!! I will do just that.>>
I draw a line across the blank for the square end of the half-pattern to line up with, also. Now if I'm a good sawyer, I got it pretty much made!SamirCanada - 7-2-2008 at 12:25 PM
what kind of saw do you use?
I was thinking of running the bent ribs in the band saw while staying clear of the marks. mind you it seems a bit tricky and I could take my time and
hand saw them.carpenter - 7-2-2008 at 12:47 PM
I have a bandsaw with a fairly fine blade - 1/4", I forget how many tpi. Does the job.
If you're sawing already-bent ribs, and the line's on the convex side, there's this; also worked well for me:Jameel - 7-2-2008 at 01:08 PM
Samir,
I use the inverted plane to remove the sawcut edge and get close to flat, (way faster than sanding) then tweak the fit with 150 or 180 sandpaper. Your
jack plane will be fine. If your vise jaws are flush with the top of your bench you can clamp the plane flush with the top, and that will give you
extra sole. Or not. Doesn't matter much since you'll be finishing with the paper.
Yes, get that first rib as close to perfect as possible. The subsequent ribs I dont use a template for at all. I have the rib boundaries marked on the
mould, then I transfer these marks (at neck, tail end and widest point) to one edge of a square but bent rib, take an old rib that you didnt use but
was close to shape and connect the marks on the inside of the rib. That way you can go to the bandsaw and cut to the line with the rib lying flat on
the bandsaw table (the tips of the rib are pointing up). Too bad you aren't closer. I could show you. carpenter - 7-2-2008 at 01:39 PM
<< take an old rib that you didn't use but was close to shape and connect the marks on the inside of the rib. That way you can go to the bandsaw
and cut to the line with the rib lying flat on the bandsaw table (the tips of the rib are pointing up) >>
He's right as usual! Lots better! I was just saying, should you find yourself with outside lines ... well, it could happen. I wasn't sure where your
lines were.
Planing can be quicker than sanding, that's for sure - "plane first" is how I do it - but if the surface is all wiggly from rocking the rib on the
plane and inattention, make sure there's enough meat on the rib left for sanding-to-a-flat-finish. 'Fast' can be deceptive. One place I hate to be is,
"Oh, jeez; I sure wish I hadn't done that ..." Doesn't take long for Regret to show up; when it does, I've invited it somehow ...
Pay attention and win! And keep that rib flat on the saw table where the cut is, don't let it buzz up and down; you're just asking for it then.jdowning - 7-2-2008 at 01:54 PM
I have always worked with cutting the rib profile close to size 'in the flat', then bending to shape and making the finishing cuts with an inverted
plane (as well as on a wide, flat, sandpapered surface) anything that works to get the rib joints as perfect and close fitting as possible with the
minimum of forcing. It should be a bit easier if the bowl is semicircular and every rib (theoretically) identical in contour.
My current project is a lute with significantly 'flattened' contour - where every rib will be different in profile from its neighbour requiring a
somewhat different technique - perhaps final fitting of each rib by planing the edges on the mold.
Once I 'get into it' and manage to figure out the best solution to this particular challenge you are welcome to drop by to see first hand what I do
(or to commiserate if I encounter difficulties!!). But by that time you may already have successfully finished your oud bowl!SamirCanada - 7-2-2008 at 02:18 PM
Thank you all for the extremely precious and valuable information. I couldn't tackle this without all of you.
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!carpenter - 7-2-2008 at 02:39 PM
Just do your best, keep your eyes open ,and remember for next time.
more progress
SamirCanada - 7-3-2008 at 05:19 AM
pegbox is almost done today. here is what happened last nite.SamirCanada - 7-3-2008 at 05:22 AM
after filling to exact shape both sides and scraping for final smoothness.
after thinking about it... I should have cut bothsides at the same time and then I would not have had to do this.SamirCanada - 7-3-2008 at 05:26 AM
here I am planing flat but at a slight angle the spacer blocks in the peg box.
I learned to use another block of wood right against it so it doesnt chip the very end of the block.SamirCanada - 7-3-2008 at 05:27 AM
and now you can see the blocks being clamped and glued in.SamirCanada - 7-3-2008 at 05:30 AM
I have bascialy scrapped the bending iron with a light bulb thing.
After watching the Saz building videos of yesterday I came up with an incredible idea to bend the ribs using a house hold clothes iron.
I clamped an aluminum tube to the bench and I can squeeze the wood between the iron and the form.
here it is with the back plate bent.
It took 2 minutes and done.SamirCanada - 7-3-2008 at 06:55 AM
here you can see the plate laying on the back. to check the fit.
there are a few spots that needed lesser bending so I adjusted the fit like that.SamirCanada - 7-3-2008 at 06:59 AM
and now I have the spreader jig bar that I will use to build the back.
I am going to use a plywood shape at the highest point for guidance purposes...
Tomorow I will carve out the neck and bottom block.jdowning - 7-3-2008 at 12:25 PM
Did you use the steam setting on the household iron Samir - or just use the iron as a 'dry' heat source?SamirCanada - 7-3-2008 at 12:32 PM
I used the steam setting mind you I didnt have much watter in there.
I didnt soak the hard maple either but I found that a lot of moisture happened trough condensation on the aluminum form. The peice of wood soaked it
up as I would glide it on there.
anyhow this is what I did
now my question is what should i have done? Jameel - 7-3-2008 at 05:19 PM
Quote:
Originally posted by SamirCanada
now my question is what should i have done?
It worked, what more do you want? Not sure your going to like doing it to a bunch
of ribs though...SamirCanada - 7-3-2008 at 07:25 PM
well the beauty here is that since you have insider information...
I have some ribs all ready bent. I will have to tweak them thats all and I plan to use the dry heat on them only.
I think you know where the ribs come from :PSamirCanada - 7-3-2008 at 07:28 PM
on the other hand the joints on the peg box failed!!!
I think that perhaps the block plane gave too smooths a finish for the glue to really grab it.
I used fish glue since I didn't feel like making fresh hide glue.
problem i think is that the fish glue is about 1 year old so it may have gone bad...
I will start over with some hot hide glue tomorrow after taking off the old glue.Jameel - 7-4-2008 at 03:50 AM
Oh yeah, I forgot about those ribs...
I wouldn't bother with using hide on the pegbox. Titebond is fine for the pegbox. Never used the fish glue, but I've read plenty about luthiers not
liking it. Don't believe the hype about planes leaving too smooth a surface for gluing. It's baloney. I plane all my glued edges and haven't had a
failure yet. And that includes pegboxes all the way up to big boy joints like these. For reference, these gluing surfaces are 4" wide. Nothing better
than a plane for really getting a perfect fit.DaveH - 7-4-2008 at 04:30 AM
Is that the neck blank for your new base oud Jameel?SamirCanada - 7-4-2008 at 07:27 AM
Sweet picture Jameel.
ok I will resort to titebond for the pegbox then.
Also I had a question for the backplate in the pegbox... how thin should it be?jdowning - 7-4-2008 at 12:29 PM
It depends upon the type and quality of fish glue I suppose but I would be surprised if fish glue in general was any good for instrument work - used
alone that is - isinglass (sturgeon) glue mixed with hide glue and used hot may be a different story. The glue brand 'Seccotine' - which used to be
sold in tubes - is an example of fish glue that is best reserved for sticking paper not wood. Liquid hide glue is also no good for instrument
building.
As Jameel suggests a good synthetic woodworking glue is fine for permanent joints that will not be required to be separated, ever, for future repairs
- like the pegbox assembly.
You will need to be sure to remove all of the old fish glue before re-gluing. Hot water (followed by drying) might be sufficient. Hot hide glue might
be more 'compatible' than synthetic glues with any fish glue residues remaining but I don't know for sure. Nevertheless, I would still use hot hide
glue for gluing the pegbox backplate in case any future splitting of the backplate (it can happen) requires its removal and replacement or repair in
future.
I have never used your household iron technique for bending wood but I have used irons for softening hide glue joints when fitting or removing
soundboards or for applying veneer for example.
If you find the iron works OK for bending, the results of your trials may make you the expert in this technique - so let us all know how you get on -
success or failure.
I use a conventional bending iron for lute ribs either with dry heat or just a wipe with a damp cloth to reduce any scorching of the wood. Any
moisture will usually immediately 'flash' to steam at the bending iron temperature - and help the bending process - so the rib should be bone dry by
the time bending is complete. Steam bending (i.e. the wood is bent when saturated with water at boiling point) is not to be recommended for instrument
building as it might result in unwanted residual stresses that could be problematic in the finished instrument.
Lute ribs are about half the thickness of oud ribs so they can be more easily bent.
Jameel is correct about the perfection of the joint surfaces - the closer fitting the better from a strength (and appearance) point of view - although
most glues are quite forgiving in this respect, having a certain amount of 'gap filling' capability. Of course, it takes a great deal of skill to hand
plane close fitting joints to perfection - the wider the joint the more difficult it is. An example in the engineering field are lapped metal surfaces
(precision tool-room inspection blocks) that are so perfectly fitted that they stick together without any glue - only by molecular attraction! But, of
course, that perfect state cannot possibly be achieved with a porous material like wood.
Is that a new bench top Jameel? My workshop(s) are in the 'dark ages' in comparison - how do you keep yours so immaculate?SamirCanada - 7-15-2008 at 10:14 AM
peg box almost done.
left is shaping and putting some pegs in there.SamirCanada - 7-15-2008 at 10:16 AM
shaping glued up strips...
well I thought I could do some inlays with this but then I realized i dont know what i am doing when it comes to making a mitre box that would be
suitable for that.GeorgeK - 7-16-2008 at 12:18 PM
Excellent progress Samir. It is going to be nice to track this project.Jameel - 7-16-2008 at 04:16 PM
Quote:
Originally posted by DaveH
Is that the neck blank for your new base oud Jameel?
Ha! That's a good one. Bass ouds (like the bass balalika and bass mandolin) have got to be the stupidest looking instruments ever.Jameel - 7-16-2008 at 04:20 PM
Yes, John that is a new workbench. Check my blog. The trick to a clean shop is to have a place for everything, and abolutely nothing sitting on the
floor unless it's supposed to be there. Then I can sweep up easily. It's taken me over 10 years to learn that.
Miter's are easy Samir. You know the inlay on the back of my #2? All of those cuts were made using only one angle - 30 degrees. There's the trick.
They all meet up perfectly because three sides always equal a right angle (90 degrees).gregorypause - 7-17-2008 at 04:52 AM
Wow Samir, you're really flying through this. Can't wait to see the end result. Best of luck!Christian1095 - 8-14-2008 at 08:02 PM
Hey Samir, we're all waiting for the next update!
SamirCanada - 8-26-2008 at 10:20 PM
neck block and end block roughed out.
I still need to get them smooth and defect free.
Also I have the spreader bar done but I am scrapping that. I am going to make a mold next thing. It is always useful and I will be able to use it for
any other ouds I make.SamirCanada - 8-26-2008 at 10:22 PM
I have the outlline done too. Just need to cut it out.SamirCanada - 8-26-2008 at 10:27 PM
I also got some new goodies.
some decent chisels...
beats the fuller ones I had..SamirCanada - 8-26-2008 at 10:29 PM
and I found this older model footprint fore plane or #6.
at a local hardware shop I dusted it and took a strait edge to it. It was dead flat so I bought it. I wasnt interested in flattening that beast. Its
heavy!SamirCanada - 8-26-2008 at 10:33 PM
I think / hope I am done buying planes for now....
I love those things though.
missing in the pic is the narrow junior jack plane.Jameel - 8-27-2008 at 04:38 AM
Nice planes Samir. You've got a nice collection going. What are you using for sharpening?SamirCanada - 8-27-2008 at 04:45 AM
I am using lee valley water stones.
I have a combination 1000X/4000X and another 8000X stone.
It fits my needs no doubt but I am looking into buying a benchtop grinder in order to hollow grind my blades.
The only thing is that since I just got the fore plane now the blade is really wide. wider then the stone so I still dont know how I am going to
tackle that.
I will be rounding the corners anyways so its not that big a deal.
but still the more planes and chisels I got... the more I dread the next sharpening session.
anyhow Jameel... any sugestions??SamirCanada - 10-6-2008 at 12:13 PM
update.
here I have finished my mould and drawing the guide lines on my blocks.
the mould is very basic plywood with 1 center bulkhead at the highest point.SamirCanada - 10-6-2008 at 12:21 PM
here is my adjusted bending iron.
I have scrapped the light bulb idea after I found it too complicated.
then one day I was having breakfast and I saw a tea warming candle on the table.
I thought Hey! I remember having burnt myself with one of those little suckers a few years back.
and then I thought what if I used them to bend wood??
so I stuck about 4 of them in the bending tube I had built before.
And since the walls of the pipe are pretty thin... tadam it got hot almost right away and it was at the boiling water almost imediatly.
plus... they are cheap!!! 4.50$ for 50.
you cant beat that.SamirCanada - 10-6-2008 at 12:42 PM
the first rib,
its butternut and I will not actualy go on the oud.
its a rib I will use to trace the outline of other ribs because the outline is traced after the rib is bent.Amer - 10-6-2008 at 10:33 PM
Nice work Sameer,
Do you have any sketches for the end result sought?or are you doing this in an evolutionary non-planned process? *my favorite in almost everything I
do*
Again, great job and I'm looking forward to see moreSamirCanada - 10-7-2008 at 04:48 AM
option number 2 Amer
I think it will be Nahat inspired, but of course one of the simpler models.SamirCanada - 10-7-2008 at 05:31 AM
Rib number 1SamirCanada - 10-7-2008 at 05:33 AM
back view.abusin - 10-7-2008 at 07:54 AM
Nice one Samir, I like the tea canddle idea does it work at all
Good luck bro,paulO - 10-7-2008 at 09:00 AM
Hi Samir,
Thanks for chronicling this journey, much appreciated.
Best Regards,
PaulSamirCanada - 10-7-2008 at 09:09 AM
it works very well Awad Bey,
I put 4 or 5 in there and boils water off the tube within seconds
thanks Paulo.Jameel - 10-7-2008 at 10:46 AM
Looking good Samir.
About sharpening. Just make a few strokes with one side of the blade hanging off, then slide over and repeat. That's pretty common for wider irons.
Keep you stones flat and you'll be fine.
Here's the best way to speed up your sharpening time. Sharpen more often. Don't let your blades get dull, but rather discipline yourself to touch them
up often. It's quick to do, since you're not removing much metal. It's hard to make yourself do it though. I still have to force myself sometimes. But
you'll be happier in the long run and your tools will perform better.aytayfun - 10-7-2008 at 10:46 AM
Well done Samir. Good Job. Waiting for progress.
Be in good health and have luck.Ararat66 - 10-7-2008 at 12:39 PM
Keep up the good work Samir - I have exactly the same Stanley planes as in those photos. The Footprint chisels are superb, still made in Sheffield in
the noth of England (just down the road from where Michael Moussa lives at the moment), and unlike a lot of 'modern' chisels, stay sharp for ages.
Best wishes
LeonSamirCanada - 10-7-2008 at 06:09 PM
Thank you Dr. AYDIN
thanks you Leon
all of you are encouraging me greatly!Peyman - 10-7-2008 at 07:04 PM
Good to see this project taking wings. Genius idea with the candles, simple and effective.mavrothis - 10-7-2008 at 08:45 PM
Man, I like your style! Candlelit oud making...
Can't wait to see more of your progress!
Take care,
mavroGeorgeK - 10-8-2008 at 06:07 AM
Very Nice Samir. I cant wait to actually see it (Samir's only about 15Km away from my house )Andy - 10-8-2008 at 10:21 AM
Excellent idea for bending wood. I will try it next time. Thank you for showing us as you go along. It is good to know that there are those, like you,
who make the effort to build their own instrument even if they have to improvise in some of the tools.SamirCanada - 10-8-2008 at 11:04 AM
the candle lit bending pipe is a great little thing.
i bent more ribs last nite to try if it would work well with another wood like maple.
it does work but I needed to put in 6 candles this time to get it really hot.
seems like its not hot enough to scortch the wood but its hot enough boil water instantly off the pipe. I find its a safer way of doing it and on top
of it as a romantic candle lit date between you and the wood your bending.
My parents thought I had become devout in my prayers or something Mike - 10-9-2008 at 08:05 AM
Nice job Samiro! As you know, these are my favorite kind of threads to follow. Keep us posted buddy.SamirCanada - 10-9-2008 at 08:08 AM
you know it!SamirCanada - 10-10-2008 at 05:56 AM
3 ribs in!!!
this is tricky in so many ways but having Jameel mentoring me for the fitting made things 1000000 times easier.
Thank again brother.
your a legend.SamirCanada - 10-10-2008 at 05:58 AM
more pics.SamirCanada - 10-10-2008 at 06:01 AM
more.Jameel - 10-10-2008 at 07:06 AM
Nice work Samir!
Looks like the 2nd rib on the treble side in the area right over your bulkhead is moving away from the mould. If that's true, start correcting it now
or it will get out of hand. Keep those ribs tight to your mould.
Keep it up!SamirCanada - 10-10-2008 at 07:21 AM
thanks Jameel,
I ended up making the rib a bit wide your right.
this is to compensate for making the first rib a bit narrow.
The one thing about the mould is that it isnt touching any of the ribs,
its not high enough. I realized this after putting in the first rib but I thought to myself I would use it rather as a visual guide instead.
I will corect it over the next rib or 2, Or try at least!
its my first bowl and even though I may be confident it doesnt mean I know what I am
doing SamirCanada - 10-16-2008 at 09:55 AM
more update.SamirCanada - 10-16-2008 at 09:57 AM
one more.Boral - 10-17-2008 at 02:16 AM
Your oud is beginning to take form. Very nice.
I have been planning to start my own for a long time.
If you continue to post pictures I don't think I can hold back.
You will be responsibleArarat66 - 10-17-2008 at 02:22 AM
Hey Boral
I have it on good authority that luthiery is even worse than ouditis so be veeeery careful
LeonBoral - 10-17-2008 at 02:29 AM
Leon, I don't usually follow the wise advice...
thank you anywayJameel - 10-17-2008 at 05:18 AM
Keep plugging away Samir! Do that much 2 more times and you're done!
Here's a little trick that makes bowl cleanup at the end much easier. After you glue on a rib, scrape the previous joint clean--get rid of all the
glue residue--before proceeding to fit the next rib. Otherwise you're going to have a longer scraping session at the end. It's also a mental thing.
Fitting subsequent ribs to a clean bowl makes the job nicer.SamirCanada - 10-17-2008 at 05:44 AM
oh nice idea!
i am going to do just that!!
thanks everyone for the encouragement.
its not easy at all to fit the ribs so I need all the encouragement i can get!SamirCanada - 10-22-2008 at 07:07 PM
updateSamirCanada - 10-22-2008 at 07:09 PM
more ribsSamirCanada - 10-22-2008 at 07:11 PM
backSamirCanada - 10-22-2008 at 07:14 PM
I wanted to see what the oud would look like with a finish...
so I applied some mineral spirits
.
