Jonathan
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Other finishes
I used the Tru Oil Sealer and the Tru Oil Finish on my last one, and loved them. Easy to apply, and really good results. But, I want to try
something different on the one I am making now, and was looking at some of the finishes out there.
Has anybody used the Sam Maloof finishes? They're for furniture, but I can't see why they could not be used for ouds. There are a couple available,
and from what I have read, the results are good, and it is easy to use. In particular, I am curious if anybody has used the one with polyurethane in
it. Is there a reason not to use polyurethane on the oud?
Any input is appreciated.
Thanks!
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Haluk
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Your oud which I made for you was finished by polyurethan varnish with hardener.
You should use pistole for best result.
Best wishes.
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Jonathan
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Thanks, Haluk. Your ouds have a beautiful finish.
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billkilpatrick
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i put an a clear acrylic finish on both my ouds of the sort used for waterproofing windows and doors but i can't recommend it. the first turned out
ok and is lovely to the touch - satin(y) smooth - but i belive it lost some tone in the process. i don't know what i did wrong with the second oud
but it never dried properly and was always slightly tacky. the luthier i brought it to to repair a warped neck removed the finish and replaced it
with something (?) much better.
can't find true oil here in italy. i belive it was originally used for conditioning gun stocks but the local hunter's shop here in town has never
heard of it. he has other products for the same purpose but not "true oil" by name ...
... what's in it? if you would be so kind as to list the ingredients (if available) maybe i could check them against the products he does have.
regards - bill
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Jonathan
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Bill, I am not sure. On the package it says linseed and other natural oils, but there is no full list of ingredients, unfortunately.
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Dr. Oud
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LMI sells a water based finish by KTM that is safe and easy to use, very durable, but not cheap. Nitrocellulose spray lacquer requires a positive respirator
to avoid lung damage and some equipment to achieve a professional finish. Once you have the set-up it is very quick and cheap, but not so easy to
repair. The oil-based varnishes (gun stock or whatever) are relatively affordable, easy to apply and repair and are very durable, but not as hard or
scratch resistant as lacquer. Acrylics are not used for instruments for a variety of reasons - they tend to delaminate over time; remain flexable and
so act like a rubber blanket and are less clear than other finishes.
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Hosam
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What type of finish Nahat ouds and other older ouds were typically finished with?
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billkilpatrick
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dear doc -
the acrylic "rubber blanket" you mention sounds exactly like what i've put over my oud. there's no end of subjectivity when it comes to my oud but i
think it has deadend the sound somewhat.
i was going to use fine sandpaper or steel wool to bring it back to the wood. i have your book but any additional information you might like to add
would be very much appreciated.
- bill
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oudmaker
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Hi Jonathan
I used Minwax polyurethane clear varnish by brush on your oud.
Dincer
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Jonathan
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Thanks, Dincer. That looks beautiful!
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Dr. Oud
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Quote: | Originally posted by billkilpatrick
dear doc -
the acrylic "rubber blanket" you mention sounds exactly like what i've put over my oud. there's no end of subjectivity when it comes to my oud but i
think it has deadend the sound somewhat.
i was going to use fine sandpaper or steel wool to bring it back to the wood. i have your book but any additional information you might like to add
would be very much appreciated.
- bill |
I would try some solvent with 0000 grade steel wool. Start with alcohol, and try more aggressive chemicals until the finish is softened enough to
remove without cutting into the wood. The next would be mineral spirits or paint thinner, then lacquer thinner, then acetone, then MEK(use care with
this one!) finally try paint remover starting with the weakest strength. Use any solvent sparingly and with adequate ventilation and a OSHA approved
ventilating mask to protect your lungs. They have OSHA in Italy?
btw, every old oud I've seen has had a shellac finish, some were polished, some were brushed, you can test the finsih with acetone. French Polish or shellac will rub off with alcohol, so you can test it with a damp Q-tip like the others.
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billkilpatrick
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thank you richard - very helpful indeed.
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jshead
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Quote: | Originally posted by Hosam
What type of finish Nahat ouds and other older ouds were typically finished with? |
Anyone know the answer to this questions?
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billkilpatrick
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dear doc -
took me a while to get around to it but i finally had a go at removing the aptly named "rubber blanket" from my egyptian oud.
didn't have to work too hard at it as the acrylic goop - or what ever it was i put on there - came off very easily with just steel wool (brought up
lots of dust) and steel wool and alcohol to finish. heard the difference right away.
if this was tv or radio it would be ...
"another happy story from the case book of ... dr. oud!"
mille grazie - bill
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SamirCanada
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striping finishes as never been soo easy with this little product.
Its totaly safe for the wood aswell.
works like a charm.
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Dr. Oud
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Quote: | Originally posted by Hosam
What type of finish Nahat ouds and other older ouds were typically finished with? | In my limited experience
they have been French Polish, or shellac.
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tele
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Are these posts refering to finish for the entire instrument? or just the back and neck? Would you use the same finish on the top or sound board???
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SamirCanada
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You wouldnt finish a top or soundboard. Its not recomended as it dampers the vibrations of the wood to create the best possible sound.
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Hosam
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I am planning to use a light coat of dewaxed shellac (Zinsser Bullseye). What would be my second best bet?
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Dr. Oud
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Quote: | Originally posted by Hosam
I am planning to use a light coat of dewaxed shellac (Zinsser Bullseye). What would be my second best bet? | Use Zinsser's French Polish and apply it in the traditional French Polish method, do not brush it on.
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