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setarmaker
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Registered: 3-12-2007
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I'll post the finished job's pictures in couple of days.
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setarmaker
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here is the finished product. Thanks to my wife for making the rose for me. It looks beautiful to me. I didn't have oud strings so I just tried the
old ones which were rusted due to several years of being seated on the oud. They still sound pretty good and I just cannot wait until I receive the
new Pyramid set.
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setarmaker
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Look at the soundboards figure. Its an outstanding wood that I've had it for five years in my stock. it might be around 10years old from the cutting
time.
Just for your info, I used a beautiful piece of Rosewood for the fingerboard plus a very dens South American cherry for the edges. I made my own
inlay band from same rosewood and maple with a finished width of 4mm. The soundboard is French polished twice only and sanded with 0000 finest steel
wool very gently.
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setarmaker
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Just a brief sketch from inside of soundboard to show what caused the balance.
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Jameel
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Nice work. I look forward to looking closer at your technical drawing. Please post a sound file when you have one.
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setarmaker
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Thanks Jameel,
I will definitely do so. I reviewed and tried your suggestions on fitting bracings against th ribs. Since I'm not as skilled as you are I had some
difficulties at the beginning but I got used to it. Your method of using sand paper to do this just reminds me the way we adjust violin bridge legs on
the soundboard or the way I fix bridges on my setars. It's neat and thanks for mentioning it. Believe me or not, The centroid method helped me to
think about a %99 accurate way to do this without any nightmare. I think when you are free to position all bracings and keep the last one for
modifying the centroid, this will allow you to have a nice template for ever and use that for all ouds with the same design. this is what I did and
got almost %100 of positive result.
What I did was that I got a piece of plywood 3/4" thick. I cut it exactly same as inside curve line of the edge ribs ( the edge where my bracings need
to be fit). then marked the centerlines of all bracings the way I had marked them on the bowl as you thought us. When I transfered them on the
plywood, I cut grooves about 5mm wide and 250mm deep so my bracings wood freely located inside of grooves. Since the perimeter of the plywood is
exactly similar to real ouds shape, I started filing the bracing ends against the edge of the groove. Doing this took me one minutes for each bracing
an 10 minutes all together. You may not believe me but, They all fit perfectly.
Now I can save this template for all other ouds with this particular shape. Although, in the next oud I will have different soundboard and center of
mass, but remember my bracings can be located just the same way I did here on this oud and the last bracing will play the role again thus, I can still
use the template any time. I want you to try this method for yourself and correct me if I'm wrong. I'll post some sketches when I get a chance.
Thanks again.
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setarmaker
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Hello my great friend. I'm back a gain. Sorry for being late. I have two good news. First that we had our first baby and she is four month old now
plus cute and healthy. I hope this will explain my delay. second, is that I have two grate things to show you. I worked hard on the concept that I
brought up. yes, the centroid and the center of mass. To proof how the waves effect or do not effect the centroid of a mass, I'm going to ask you to
refer to the links below and just follow what is explained below. Not need to start all over since, you know what we have been after. You can play
with the attached applets with different frequencies, modes and combination and find out exactly what is going on. you can go up ti infinity on
combinations but, in an instrument you just need some of those combinations. When you get on the link do this:
First link http://www.falstad.com/circosc/ is about a circular plate. Please turn on "show frequencies", "color" and sound. you can click on each single
square at the bottom knowing that the top left is the first mode of a frequency. next you can add another square to combine it with the first one or
unplug the first and try the second mode in single. Now you have to see these modes with different views. in the menus choose solid, wireframe and
play with 3D or 2D options.
Now, what you find is that the center of mass and the centroid which are coincide are not playing a big of a role. Just bouncing on the same axis no
matter what combination if taking effect. I'm sure that an oud belly is more complicated, but the centroid and the C.G. will behave similar if and if
they are coincide. You may notice from the wireframe option that the more you get far from that center the bouncing has bigger range till you get to
the edges and this is where the wave reverses it's direction (up and down). The beauty of these plates is that they are fixed on the edges just like
the oud belly is.
Now try the link http://www.falstad.com/membrane/ to see it does not matter what shape we are working on. The centroid and C.G. are still the same way.
try to work with the applet for at least 30 minutes to feel it. and give me your input. By the way, Mr. Shahidi is not available and would not like
to be broadcast, so I could not upload him to show you the result of the oud that I repaired for him, but he Okayed just to put the sound of it for
you. As I mentioned I'm not an oud player but I know what a good sound is. The sound of it is lovely except a little weak on the first string when
played in high frequencies near the belly. I believe this is just a lack of my skills. I bet you will get much more result since you are more
skilled.
Thank you all, Ahmad
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jdowning
Oud Junkie
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Registered: 8-2-2006
Location: Ontario, Canada
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Thanks for the link to falstad.com Ahmad. That is an interesting site to explore.
Congratulations on your new family member. Enjoy!
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