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Jonathan
Oud Junkie
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Thanks, Samir. It was a bad choice, really, but I can live with it dulled down. I think I am still going to dull it down a bit further than what I
have here.
I like the way things are shaping up. The face is not cut to exact size yet, so it might look a little mis-shapen. And, the roses are not set into
place, just put in place with a little tape to get an idea of how it will look.
The good thing is that the material is very very lightweight. The whole face is just incredibly light. I have a hard time believing that this thing
is going to last once strung up, but we will see.
A while back, somebody (DocO?) wrote that the best ouds are on the verge of collapse. Well, I know I can get it to collapse, so I am almost there!
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Peyman
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That looks awsome Jonathan. I don't know why you would want to dull it down 
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Jonathan
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Thanks. I appreciate it.
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Jonathan
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I got a lot done over the past week, so I will be putting up a few pictures over the next couple of days.
One more shot of the the back of the oud:
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Jonathan
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I trimmed the face down to size. I planned on using a simple black purfling, so, after cutting it down to the size of the oud bowl, I then had to
trim a bit more off so I had room for the purfling.
I know there is a tool for this, but I don't have it, so I just notched a scrap of wood to the correct size, and used that to make a guideline.
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Jonathan
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I guess I should mention that I reset the neck one more time, as well. Let's see, that makes the third time. The first time, the profile was all
off, as was the angle. The angle was off, I believe, because of the clamping involved while the glue set.
The second time it turned out OK--a perfectly straight line with the neck and tail blocks.
Then, the more I thought about it, the more I decided I wanted the top of the neck set back just a bit--2 mm. The tension of the strings may pull it
up and, with time, necks do warp.
So, I reset it, using hide glue this time. Hide glue is pretty amazing. I used no clamps at all. Just some duct tape to hold the neck in place with
the body. And it turned out awesome. Hide glue is the way to go. A little more work, but the results are better in the end.
Here's a shot of the braces. I should have masked the area around the braces, because you can see residual glue there, which I will remove. You can
tell that woodworking is new to me--masking it would have taken two seconds, and saved me a lot of time.
I am so glad that I dulled down the rosettes on the other side--they look pretty hideous like this.
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Jonathan
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I had questioned in an earlier post whether or not the position of the bottom two braces was arbitrary. It had seemed to me that the braces around
the rosettes were fixed by the location of the rosettes, but that the builder could play a bit with the location of the bottom two braces.
This really is not true.
The length from the nut to the junction of the neck with the bowl has to be one third of the total string length. The bridge position is dependent on
those bottom braces so it really largely dictates where they are going to be.
I had made a bridge a few months ago, and posted pictures of it at that time.
I was playing around with some scraps of wood, however, and ended up making a new one. It is mahogany, with assorted woods on the top.
I like it.
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Jonathan
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Here's a better view of it. Ridiculously easy to make, and it looks cool.
You can sort of see the rosettes here--a lot better dulled down.
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Andy
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Excellent job Jonathan, will be waiting to hear the final result.
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Jonathan
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Thanks, Andy. I appreciate it.
So, here it is with the face just resting in place--not glued in yet.
Starting to finally look like an oud.
I know that it would have probably been preferable to have put the mizraplek on by now. I have been struggling with which material to use, and the
shape. The whole look of the oud changes so much when the mizraplek is placed, so I want to take my time deciding. So, it is going to wait until the
end. Hopefully, by then, I will have made up my mind.
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Jonathan
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I continued with the hide glue. I first primed the edges of the ribs, let that dry, and then glued it into place, agian using hide glue. I cut out
some wax paper to the size of the face, and then used tape to pull it together. Fit together very nicely. Then, she sat for a day.
What a sloppy work space. Should have picked up after myself before I took the picture.
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Greg
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It's looking great Jonathan.
For the first time in over forty years, a new Varjabedian oud is about to be born.
It must be very exciting for you to be following in your grandfather's footsteps.
Sincere best wishes,
Greg
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Jameel
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Jonathan,
Looking great. Seeing it come together is very satisfying.
Great way to put it Greg. I'm sure Jonathan's grandfather is smiling
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Jonathan
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Thanks, guys. I was so unhappy with the way things were going in the beginning. I almost scrapped the project a couple of times to start over. I am
glad I didn't.
But, I am learning, and I think that my skill level, meager as it is, is improving.
This is really turning out to be a very very satisfying project. I can see myself always having an oud project going.
I never thought of it that way, Greg, but a beautiful sentiment. I never knew the man, but I feel a real closeness to him. The weird thing is, it is
starting to look like one of his.
For my label, I actually incorporated the graphic of an oud that he had on his label--a tribute to him.
Back to the project.
I liked that bridge so much that I decided to use it for the purfling, as well. A lot of scraps. Maple, rosewood, walnut, cherry.
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Mike
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Wow Jonathan! This is going to turn out to be one fine oud my man. I have really enjoyed watching your progress throughout this whole project. Can't
wait to see the finished product, although we've got a pretty good idea with the latest pictures. Keep it up bud.
Take care,
Mike
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Jonathan
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Thanks, Mike. I can't wait either, but at least now I have a pretty good idea of what it will look like.
While we are at it, I guess I ought to add that I made a quickie support stand for the oud. Really helped a lot. Nothing fancy--just a block of wood
with the profile of the bowl cut out of it. Then I just put a little right angle brace on the table to hold the top of the oud in place.
I am working on a new support stand that I will be able to turn as I work on the oud. I will give you details when I get it done.
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Jonathan
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Getting there.
Don't know that it means much, but if I just tap lightly on the face, it puts out a lot of a nice deep tone. We'll see.
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Jonathan
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Purfling is now around the edge of the face, as well--still have to sand it and make it smooth.
Unfortunately, I won't be able to do anything on the oud for another month or so, but I ought to be able to finish it by the end of May (hopefully).
Actually, that is the date that I put on my label--"May, 2006".
I know this is a minor point, but how do oud makers generally date the oud? By the time you put that face on, you still have a lot of work to do. Is
that date generally the date that the face was put in place?
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SamirCanada
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Looking Good Dr.
Iam really enjoying this thread. It must be such a thrill like Greg and Jameel said to follow in the footsteps left by your Grandfather. Its almost
like he left you clues for you to discover and then finaly lead you to this. What a good feeling it must be. God works in mysterious ways 
Also from the last picture you can tell the neck action is going to be much better so it will eventualy lead you to play it more often (thats a good
thing). It was really a good idea to get it right. Well Done, Keep it up.
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Jonathan
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Thanks, Samir. Kind of hard to tell in that last picture, but it actually sets back 3mm. Might be too, much, but I think it will be ok. I hope.
Maybe.
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SamirCanada
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Sorry I meant 3 pictures above... I didnt realize you were still posting pics while I was typing the message. 
Actualy I think 3 mm is fine right now because dont forget that the fingerboard will add you thickness so it should come close to a 2mm depression if
your fingerboard is around 1mm thick.
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Jonathan
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Thanks, Samir. I knew which one you meant--I just meant that the perspective isn't that great. I should have put a straight edge on it and taken a
photo from the side.
I really couldn't do any of this without everybody's help. That graphic you posted awhile back showing the proper neck angle helped a lot.
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SamirCanada
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Well I wouldnt know anything about oud making if it wasnt for Jameel. He's awnsered every single question I ever had about fixing up ouds. He's verry
humble but he diserves many compliments.
When I put the fingerboard in place the last time.. I had to plane down and sand down the fingerboard after it had been glued. the reason for that
being that I wasnt comfortable cuting it to exact thickness right away.. So I wanted to adjust it after it was on. Because I learnt that you can
always shave off wood.. but you cant put it back on :P
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Dr. Oud
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Jonathan
...Kind of hard to tell in that last picture, but it actually sets back 3mm. ... |
You can always make the fingerboard tapered to adjust for the setback if it seems too much. Ideally the action will be at it's lowest point (3mm at
the body joint) with the string loops tied near the top of the bridge. This will allow some adjustment if the oud bends over time.
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Jonathan
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My fear is that I am going to string it up, and find that it is buzzing. Do you not know until the very end? Or do you somehow tack the rough cut
fingerboard in place, string it up, and see how it plays? I would hate to do all the work on the fingerboard, and then find out that I needed a
taper.
Thanks!
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