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Jonathan
Oud Junkie
Posts: 1582
Registered: 7-27-2004
Location: Los Angeles
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Here's my baby. 6 coats of Tru Oil on her--3 of sealer, 3 of finish.
I sanded that wood so much my arm is still sore--to 1200 grit.
Probably a waste, but it does look sweet. The bands on the maple really pop out, and the lacewood took on a lot of depth.
I made that neck band a bit bigger--sort of like Kyvelos does. I really do like the way it looks. The finish is neutral, so the beauty of the wood
shines through.
I am probably still going to sand this down with the 0000 steel wool, and then use some car polish. Suggestions?
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Jonathan
Oud Junkie
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Remember that area that I had to patch? I ended up just using a paint pen, signing my name, the date, and "Oud #1" on it. With the 6 coats of finish
on there, I figure that it will not wear off.
I have to put up some more shots of the face, but I am resetting the beard, so it is going to have to wait for a while.
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Mike
Super Administrator
Posts: 1568
Registered: 12-3-2002
Location: California, USA
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Must be feeling pretty good right about now Jonathan. Congratulations on completion of the oud. I really enjoyed watching the progress of this
project. Seeing you soak up all the knowledge from the experts and apply it was awesome too my friend. The oud turned out really nice. Let's get
together soon man, and have an oud party. This time you come visit me! :-)
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Jonathan
Oud Junkie
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Thanks, Mike. It's been way too long.
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oudipoet
Oud Junkie
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i sure would love to see more pict from every angle it looks nice congrets.
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Hank Levin
Oud Maniac
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Location: Medford, Oregon
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Congratulations again, man!
The finish looks great, and the grain really jumps out. With that "name patch" you might start a trend.
Congratulations too on the longest damn string in history on the forum (I bet--right, Mike?)---14 pages.
Gule gule kullanin! (Use it with joy!)
Hank
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Jonathan
Oud Junkie
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Registered: 7-27-2004
Location: Los Angeles
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Thanks, guys. I will post pics from a bunch of different angles in a few days. Right now, the beard is setting, then I want to just clean that area
up a tiny bit (see if I can get rid of that stain), and then I will take a bunch of pics.
I have played it with a total of one string--nice volume, good tone, but I will let you guys be the judge.
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Jameel
Oud Junkie
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Registered: 12-5-2002
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How rewarding is that!!! The oud looks gorgeous Jonathan. The woods
look spectacular. And signing your name to that patch is a great example of turning a mistake (or in this case, damage) into something great. No one
will EVER suspect what happened there. I love it. We must see some more pics, (the face and edging, pegbox etc) and of course some sound files. Really
looking forward. So when's the next one due??
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Jonathan
Oud Junkie
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Jameel, you are my inspiration with this whole thing. The wood does look awesome. But, tomorrow morning, I am going to use the 0000 steel wool on
it, and then put on some auto wax. I might be going overboard on this, but I want the surface super smooth. It is smooth, but, when I run my hand
over it, I want it to feel like glass.
I will get up a good set of pics from all angles in a few days. Sound file in a week or two. I actually messed up one of my fingers on this oud a
few days ago (bad cut), and playing is difficult right now. But, it will be fine, and I should get a sound file up in the next 2 weeks.
So, here is my list of stuff that I learned from this experience. Things that I really need to keep in mind, and that I really did not understand
when I started the project.
1. Wood choice. It's important. Go with woods that you have seen on other ouds. I would use the maple again in a second. It was not that tough to
work with. The lacewood, for me, had a much higher tendency to crack when being bent, and was irritating on the skin. Others may have a different
experience.
2. The neck block. You really have to think this through from the beginning, and look at that neck block and ask yourself if this is the profile of
the neck that you want. I did not do that. It seems basic, I know--the neck block exactly dictates the profile of the neck. I made it all work by
making a "cap" for the neck block, but I should have thought it through from the beginning, and gotten a better profile for the neck block right from
the start.
3. Purfling between the ribs. Don't use my method. Dincer's approach would certainly have been better. It is impossible to simply glue it onto the
rib and expect the angle to stay the same.
4. When taping the ribs together to dry, you really have to be careful of the amount of tension that is applied. I started the tape on the inside of
what was to be the bowl, wrapped the tape around the edge of the new rib that was being attached, and over the top. This had the tendency to cause
the bowl to become wider than planned. That "wrap around" approach is dangerous, and I am going to have to avoid it next time around. In fact, I am
going to avoid duct tape for this part altogether, because I tended to put more tension on the ribs when I was using duct tape, as compared to when I
was just using painter's tape.
5. Hide glue. I should not have been intimidated by the stuff. It is easy to make, and not that tough to use. It does require you to work faster,
but there are areas that I will always use it in the future. In addition to the face and braces, I am going to use it when attaching the neck to the
neck block. With the hide glue, no significant clamping was required (just tape). Whenever I used the Tite bond there and clamped the joint, I
always introduced a distortion to that angle.
6. Tite Bond. I really like the stuff. Very, very easy to use. But, make sure the container is closed tight after use, because if it is not, it
seemed to weaken. And, probably best to just by the small bottles. I could be wrong but, to me, it seemed to get less strong the older it got.
7. Abalam. Too expensive. Generally happy with the result, but not worth the cost.
8. Glue is heavy. It doesn't seem like it, but it is. When I first removed the bowl from the mould, it was super light. Too light, I thought.
Sure, it seemed strong enough, but how could it be when it was this light? So, I put glue and sawdust along each rib joint (behind the paper).
Didn't seem heavy at the time, but, by the end of it all, the bowl was much heavier, and, I am guessing, not significantly stronger.
9. Mask the mould. Use wax, tape, whatever. Just do something. In the beginning, I did not, and the central ribs got stuck to the mould. I ended
up destroying the mould just to remove the bowl.
I am not even going to mention masking the face. . .
So, for what it is worth, those are my lessons learned on this project. If nothing else, they will serve as a reminder to myself as I work on my next
one.
I am pretty happy with it. The only thing I am dissatisfied with, so far, is the size of the tail plate (whatever you call that thing on the
bottom). But, again, this was my first oud, and my first wood working experience, so I am sure that in the future I will not have to make this part
this large again.
When I finally get around to playing it, I may have a couple more. But, my gut feeling is that it is going to sound OK, and play OK, at least from
my preliminary one string assessment. Of course, when I string it up, the whole thing might fall apart, but it seems pretty solid.
My next oud is probably just going to be mahogany for the bowl. I have the wood cut and the mould made. I would have liked to use alternating bands
of mahogany and maple, and I might, but I don't know if the contrast of a very very hard wood and a much softer wood is going to cause me any trouble
at the end when I start sanding. Probably not, I guess. I have to think about that a bit more. I like the look of the dark and light wood a lot
but, on the other hand, I found some mahogany that looks really nice and might look good on its own.
So, not quite done, I guess, but close enough that I can give you all my most heartfelt thanks. Doc's book was incredibly valuable. As was his
advice, and the advice of Jameel, Dincer, Hank, Samir, Peyman, and everybody else. I could never have even thought of doing this without everybody's
help.
OK, so tomorrow, I unclamp the beard, do the final finish on the bowl, try to clean up that stain with some acetone, glue in the nut, and string this
baby up.
All the best, guys.
And thanks again.
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Peyman
Oud Junkie
Posts: 496
Registered: 7-22-2005
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That looks awsome . I like the figure on the lacewood and I think
the way you spread the ribs gives it a unique look. Thanks for the pointers too. I know you have to wait for the tension to set in, but the project is
not complete untill a sound sample is posted .
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Jonathan
Oud Junkie
Posts: 1582
Registered: 7-27-2004
Location: Los Angeles
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Thanks! A sound clip is coming in a week or so. I have had it strung up for a few hours now, and it seems that the tone changes significantly in
just that short time. A lot of sustain, which I like. A bit trebbly, but I guess most ouds start out a little bright. I am very happy with it.
I guess I should have strung it up more gradually, but I just had to hear it.
Working on that stain now. The acetone helped. It did not remove it all, but it made it much better. I will give it another shot a little later in
the day.
Still have to sand down the finish with the 0000 steel wool, and put on the wax. Not sure if any particular brand is best, but I will see what works.
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Hank Levin
Oud Maniac
Posts: 90
Registered: 2-7-2004
Location: Medford, Oregon
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Jonathan,
Trebbly is good---it's easy to get good bass on an oud; hard to get good treble. Some ouds don't open up in the treble for a year. --Hank
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Jonathan
Oud Junkie
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My final set of pictures on this one. I tried to get shots from every angle.
I will have a sound clip up next week. I am very happy with it.
Again, thank you all for all of your help. I could not have done it without you
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Jonathan
Oud Junkie
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It was worth resetting the neck, because the action turned out perfect.
I have no idea why I added that little ebony inlay at the peg box junction, but it looks ok. There is a very very thin strip of maple between the
ebony fingerboard and the mahogany neck--not too apparent in this picture.
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Jonathan
Oud Junkie
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other side.
This pic, and the two above, are after I sanded down that final coat of truoil, and put on two coats of wax. This is how the finish is going to be--I
am not planning on doing any more to it.
The maple is all flamed, although it might not appear that way in the pictures--on some ribs, you have to turn the oud a bit and let the light catch
it and then the flames pop out.
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Jonathan
Oud Junkie
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The neck band was used to cover up that cap I placed on the neck block, but I like the way it looks. Just a scrap of veneer.
I wish I had kept that lacewood/maple banded pattern that I have on the peg box cap, and used it all the way down the back of the peg box--next time.
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Jonathan
Oud Junkie
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The peg box is functional, but next time I do plan on making it a bit more decorative.
I guess I should have lined the oud up perpendicular to the ground for this shot, because the angle makes it look off a bit, which it is not.
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oudipoet
Oud Junkie
Posts: 190
Registered: 1-3-2006
Location: los angeles
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for first try it turned out very nice jonathan i hope you ll enjoy it for years to come and i sure hope you ll keep building more and more ouds.
ps: i can not wait to hear the sound of it
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akram
Oud Junkie
Posts: 372
Registered: 3-29-2005
Location: fassuta
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that is very nice oud
how is the sound?????
i whish you luck
akram
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LeeVaris
Oud Junkie
Posts: 379
Registered: 12-16-2003
Location: Los Angeles
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Mood: oud lover
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Wow...
Thanks for sharing this process with us - I can't wait to hear it!
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Jonathan
Oud Junkie
Posts: 1582
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Location: Los Angeles
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Thanks, guys. I am happy with it, and the sound is nice. Good volume, lots of resonance, and even throughout. I messed up my left hand a little
bit, which makes playing temporarily difficult. I will get a sound sample up next week for sure.
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abusin
Oud Junkie
Posts: 442
Registered: 3-23-2006
Location: Manchester England
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Mood: Ya Fuadi La Tasal
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Hi Johnathan
I've followed your master calss for a while and was amazed by your beautifull work, you're an expert mate even if its your first creation and I very
much appreciate your detailed approach to the project.
Although I missed on the neck, soundboard and pegbox bit I'm not sure if they Have been covered or not?
Let me take this oppertunity on your behalf to thank everyone participated via their advice, constructive comments and words of encouragemet.
And my friend you're a master, keep it up and I'm looking forward to see another master peice of yours
All the best to you and all
yours,
Awad
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Jameel
Oud Junkie
Posts: 1672
Registered: 12-5-2002
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Looking nice, Jonathan. Can't wait to hear the sound clip.
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Jonathan
Oud Junkie
Posts: 1582
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Thanks, guys. I will get something up tomorrow or the next day. Initially, I had it strung up using LaBella OU80s (Turkish), tuned to DGAdgc. I
guess I did not want to stress the instrument out, so I did not go all the way up to EABead. The sound has changed over just these few days--a nice
full sound with a lot more on the bottom end. Not sure why. Maybe the strings just hadn't settled in enough. Maybe the oud had to settle in. I
have no idea. Don't know if that is expected to happen or not. I have had new ouds before, but have never had one from the moment of birth, so to
speak.
So, now I have it tuned up to my usual EABead and, sometimes, DABead, and the sound is really nice, full, with a really long sustain on the bass
notes. I have heard a lot better, but I have also heard a lot worse.
I hope to post something really soon, but I now realize that with all of those hours devoted to building the oud, I really should have been practicing
more.
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paulO
Oud Junkie
Posts: 531
Registered: 9-8-2004
Location: California
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Hi Johnathan,
Congradulations on finshing up your unique and beautiful instrument. Looking forward to the sound clips, and then again in say 6 months, one year etc
!! Take care.
Cheers...Paul
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