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Dr. Oud
Oud Junkie
Posts: 1370
Registered: 12-18-2002
Location: Sacramento, CA, USA
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Mood: better than before
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OK, I understand how parabolas focus electromagnetic waves, but my understanding of sound waves is that they act on the air (or water) molecules to
create vibrations that propogate rather than eletromagnetic waves that act more like projected or uni-directional waveforms. My point is that even if
you stand behind a speaker, you will hear the sound (although muted) but if you stand behind a flashlight, you're still in the dark. no?
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Elie Riachi
Oud Junkie
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Location: Kansas
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Mood: Gebran Tueni Lives For Ever, 12-12-05.
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Hi Doc,
My reply is a new topic in the Questions forum.
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Jameel
Oud Junkie
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Registered: 12-5-2002
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One other technique I've learned I wanted to share.
Instead of simply relying on a curved line drawn on the rib itself, or pre-cutting the rib to shape, in order to correctly place the rib so it follows
the curve of the bowl, its necessary to place the square and bent rib next to the previous one. I then rotate the rib down at the widest point of the
bowl, causing the two ends to raise up, until the angle is correct at the widest part of the bowl and the rib is sitting nicely on the mould. The
parts that are raised up represent the part of the rib that needs to be removed. I usually sketch this by eye on the rib, and saw it off, staying away
from the line, then true it up on the inverted plane. When I get close to a straight line from tip to tip I stop planing and begin tweaking the bend
and twist of the rib so it sits nice on the mould all along. This will inevitably cause some more planing to tweak the edge, but that it why the rib
was kept square, to allow some extra stock. When the rib fits well, I mark the final dimensions of the rib from the marks on the mould and saw and
plane to these marks.
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Jameel
Oud Junkie
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See how the shape of this bowl departs from the mould? This is intentional. 
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Jameel
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The bowl is finished. I would have to say that this was by far the most difficult of the three bowls I've made. Building open-mould (ala Dr. Oud) was
the easiest. But I would have to say that for complex shapes, I'm going to have to rely on a mould. And the next mould will definitely have flats, in
order to more accurately guide the process.
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Jameel
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Another view. The curved-around (100 degree) tail end is a bit difficult to capture, especially with my cheap digital camera, which has a wide-angle
lens that distorts everything. Isn't that cherry wood purdy!?
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Jameel
Oud Junkie
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Here you can see more clearly the departure in shape from the mould. The oud on top was made with the same mould. The area behind the neck is deeper
(only about 1cm though) and the tail end also has a deeper area (this is more evident when viewed from the front), plus the curved-back tail end is
also somewhat visible. In all, this makes the oud look a bit less deep than the top one, when it fact it contains a greater amount of space.
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SamirCanada
Moderator
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Registered: 6-4-2004
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Looks nice Jameel...
Its a Classic in the works if you ask me. Thanks for posting your developements
following any of your projects is always wonderfull. So I just want to encourage and congradulate you for your dedication and professionalism.
Keep it up
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Hosam
Oud Junkie
Posts: 180
Registered: 12-6-2005
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Very nice Jameel, I agree that cherry looks great. I can not wait to see the final out come of this project. I have a feeling that it will not be too
far away.
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Jonathan
Oud Junkie
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Location: Los Angeles
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Incredible, Jameel. I always thought an oud should have two different types of wood, and that the wood should be separated by purfling. That was the
"look" that I really liked.
But, your ouds really make me rethink that. You use incredible wood, and you really let the wood speak for itself. It is a very elegant, very
refined look, and I cannot imagine anything better. And the craftsmanship is always stunning.
I don't know if any of that makes sense, but I hope you get the idea.
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abusin
Oud Junkie
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Location: Manchester England
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Hi Jameel,
again as expected another master piece, well done
all the best,
Awad
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Jonathan
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Jameel--Just a quick question on the technique for sizing the ribs that you mentioned earlier.
Are you just cutting one side of the rib, then? It seems like, with this technique, the opposite side remains untouched.? I am guessing that you
just sand that side to give it the right angle at the edge, or am I wrong?
Thanks
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mavrothis
Oud Junkie
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Location: NJ/NYC
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Beautiful!
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Jameel
Oud Junkie
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Thanks fellas.
I like the look of just one species for the bowl. It's also easier! (my secret reason )
Jonathan, I am cutting just one side. The other side remains untouched until I get close to having the opposite side fit. When I am very close (just a
bit of fine sanding or filing) I go ahead and cut the open side to shape.
Yes, I just plane and sand the open side to match the marks on the mould. If there are twists in the rib, then it won't necessarily sit flat on the
sanding board, but it still works. Just make sure the edge is as smooth a line as you can, it will make fitting the next rib easier. You can also just
make it flat, and fit the next rib to it. 6 of 1, 1/2 dozen of other.
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Jonathan
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I can't wait to try it. Thanks!
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Jonathan
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Jameel, I hate to keep bugging you with questions, but I learn so much from you.
What do you have attached on the bottom of your form? It looks like you have it attached from the form, to a block of wood, and then mounted in your
vice. Is there a brand name? It looks like it would make things a lot easier.
Again, thanks. I really appreciate it.
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Jameel
Oud Junkie
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No problem, Jonathan. It's a RAM mount. I got that when I was working on the last oud.
Check page 2 of "My Next Oud Project" thread
I bought it here:
http://www.gpscity.com/item-ram-mount-double-round-plate-assembly/r...
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Andy
Oud Junkie
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Registered: 10-5-2004
Location: MA
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You guys have got this oud making down to a science!!!!!!! Pefected tried and pefected again. Reading and watching the process makes me want to get
started on building my next one which is long over due. Jameel and Jonathan and Hosam what inspiration, this is great. I am thrilled watch you build
and perform oud magic in front of our eyes. BRAVO!
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Jonathan
Oud Junkie
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Jameel, that approach to fitting the ribs really openned my eyes. It helps a lot. Thanks!
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Jameel
Oud Junkie
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I hope it helps you Jonathan. That's why I posted it. It's just something I gleaned from others and it worked for me.....
Andy. Far from perfection. I'm just getting started. Your website is perhaps one of the first I saw when I started building ouds, so I'm definitely
your junior when it comes to oud making.
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Jameel
Oud Junkie
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Tail inlay, neck joint
Here are some more pics of the progress.
I'm trying another neck method this time around. This is a dovetail and stringer ala Doc O. I thought I would combine the mechanical strength of a
dovetail with Doc's stringer. I'm also going to veneer this neck. It's made from vertical grain linden (lime, basswood). The extra thickness has not
yet been removed. I'll do that after I get the face braced and ready to glue, that way my angles won't change in the meantime. Oh yeah, the inlay and
pegbox cap are ivory linen Micarta. Just trying this material on this "experimental" oud. So far I like it. It looks very much like real ivory (well,
not REAL close up). I'll just tell you all that I am trying my best to do something really special with this particular instrument. I can't reveal
anything yet, but to my knowledge, it will be a first.
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Jameel
Oud Junkie
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The outline of the face traced from the bowl itself. You can see how much I changed the shape from the previous oud.
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Jameel
Oud Junkie
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The bowl edge trimmed flat. This is the final shape and size.
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Jameel
Oud Junkie
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Tail end curve. Not so curvy, but it was tricky to make
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Jameel
Oud Junkie
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Paper strips installed. This time I put some across the ribs as well.
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