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Author: Subject: I just bought this OUD - Advice/comments please
Scolecite
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thumbup.gif posted on 8-18-2010 at 04:45 AM
I just bought this OUD - Advice/comments please


I am a beginner so I am looking for ANY advice or comments about this OUD I purchaced.

http://arabinstruments.com/112730/Ahmed-Abdel-Halim-Professional-Ou...

1. What do you think of the materials used in the construction? Is there anything at all you can tell me about the wood choices?

2. I noticed it looks like there is more room towards the left side of the fret board in the picture to the left of the bottom string? Is this done on purpose? Is this so I can use 12 strings if I want, or is it just out of symmetry? Im afraid Im getting paranoid now that I bought it.

3. The fingerboard seems broad compared to some other ouds Ive seen. Is this desireable? Are only the ultra professional ones the ones with the skinny necks?

4. If you are so inclined if you listen to the sound file I would love to hear what you think about the sound of this oud (not that you can tell from a video! but maybe an impression of the oud). And maybe having heard it, a set of strings that might work well on it.

THANKS!!!
Can't wait to get my new O U D :applause:

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fernandraynaud
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[*] posted on 8-18-2010 at 05:30 AM


They are reputable vendors, worst case you pay for shipping to return it.

You should ask them about stringing preferably before they ship it. Hard to see on photo. Many ouds ship with 5 courses with 10 strings but bridge is drilled and nut is grooved for 6 courses 11 strings.

It looks like the fingerboard width on the bowl is ornamental and does not affect width of playing area.

The woods etc seem ok.
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Scolecite
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[*] posted on 8-18-2010 at 05:42 AM


Here is a better picture of the strings.

http://www.arabinstruments.com/image/users/112730/ftp/my_files/Abde...

There are only 9 strings! What does this mean did I screw the pooch on this one? If so I want to cancel asap if I made a mistake.

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fernandraynaud
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[*] posted on 8-18-2010 at 06:00 AM


To be honest I think you might want to take a little more time to really look around. They have very little inventory at this time.
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[*] posted on 8-18-2010 at 06:03 AM


I have looked around, noone seems to have any ouds in stock. I mean is there something wrong with this oud or a reason I shouldnt get it? It has an ebony fretboard and walnut. The only other option are the GEF's. Mid-East makes them but most are out of stock. Is there a better option for ~$500, you can always PM me.

Thanks
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fernandraynaud
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[*] posted on 8-18-2010 at 06:12 AM


It's not uncommon for the lower cost ouds to ship with 5 courses/9 strings. They usually drill for 11 or 12 but the nut can be a headache as there are players who like the 9 string setup. If you can, I would take longer to fully understand all the issues. $400 is a tough price point. At the $500 level you can usually find an oud that doesn't start out needing mods.

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fernandraynaud
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[*] posted on 8-18-2010 at 06:13 AM


Make your email visible in your profile or put it here. You are in too much of a hurry. It takes a little time.
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[*] posted on 8-18-2010 at 07:29 AM


I have sent you an email.
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[*] posted on 8-18-2010 at 08:56 AM


The oud is fine. I purchased a similar oud from the same company about 4 months ago. It is a wonderful value. They ship with an Egyptian set up of strings (5 courses). Just order another set of full strings and restring it with the full 11 strings (6 courses). The company is legitimate, and the quality per cost is good. I recommend keeping and loving the oud.
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Scolecite
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[*] posted on 8-18-2010 at 09:20 AM


Thanks Jack! I will get full nights of sleep now till my Oud arrives. You got a Ahmed Abdel Halim Oud correct?

I liked that it has an ebony fingerboard, I thought that was good value, not that you can count on that alone.
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[*] posted on 8-18-2010 at 12:09 PM


No, I purchased a similar oud made by Gawharet El Fan, but they are astonishingly alike in materials, build, and price. My friend bought one as well, and it is a very nice oud also, so I think you'll be quite pleased, as they sell good value ouds for the price.
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fernandraynaud
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[*] posted on 8-18-2010 at 04:19 PM


Each oud is different. These are not made on assembly lines. It's too hard to tell the stringing options (or anything else) from their photos. Normally you will have the choice of 5 or 6 course stringing. But even if the nut is only slotted for 9/10 strings, as happened on my first oud, it's not a big job to re-slot it or replace it, it's been discussed on the forum.

I didn't mean to suggest there's anything wrong with this particular instrument, only that if you aren't sure, and your choices are limited, it's usually a good idea to take your time. But since you're buying from a reputable store, I wouldn't lose sleep over it. When are you expecting it?


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[*] posted on 8-18-2010 at 06:46 PM


Fernand it should be here next week. Im sure its gonna have slots for more strings that would explain why there is more space on the fretboard. I like the Ouds materials and looks and its in my pricepoint. Im familiar with arabinstruments I got my darbuka from them so Im not worried about the seller.

I picked up some Pyramid Orange strings, to restring it when it comes in and better quality plectrum. I already have some fingerboard oil for the fingerboard. I was thinking of getting that violin peg grease and mix it with Ivory soap for the pegs if you think thats a good idea.

Anything else I should think about?
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fernandraynaud
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[*] posted on 8-18-2010 at 11:56 PM


The violin peg grease is usually too slick. You don't put soap on unless it really needs it, and then you mix it with chalk, or they will slip. Just leave the pegs alone for openers. Raw wood on wood is often the best.

Many fingerboards come varnished for looks. The best thing to do in that case is to sand/clean off the varnish as it will just slough off and get in the way. If it's a good ebony it doesn't need any treatment beyond that, I'd leave it raw so you can better observe it. If after playing it a lot for a couple of weeks or a month you see that the wound strings are wearing grooves in the fingerboard, then you can consider coating it with a hard finish.

There are many different materials and shapes for the reesha. There is no single "best", though horn is one if the finest sounding materials. The smart thing is to get as many different types as you can find, and some sandpaper to shape them. Different ouds sound best with different reeshas, and it's also an important aspect of finding your personal touch.

A lot of people approach the oud initially as another string instrument. But they fairly quickly discover it has a specific language that it "wants to speak", and that is the traditional Maqam system, which goes back to Byzantine and ancient Greek theories and is the foundation of all Arabic, Persian and Ottoman music. The way I see it, the oud opens up an opportunity to learn something a Western musician has never been exposed to, and it's a precious gift. I'd recommend OudProf's "learn maqamat" DVD, and ordering it now, as it ships from Jordan. It shows a lot of basic material about how to handle the oud, and also ceates a great context for practice, in addition to teaching the Maqamat. It costs less than a single lesson from a pro, and unless you plan to take regular lessons from someone who knows the whole tradition, you will get a lot of mileage out of it, it's invaluable. Look it up on ebay. Marina's book is also useful to get started, it comes with a DVD, and can be picked up quickly, but OudProf's DVD is something you can use for a long long time.

I'm excited for you and hope this baby meets your expectations. Look up some of the desirable measurements I listed in a previous post, like the neck lean-back from the soundboard plane. Since the neck/bridge are not adjustable, the action as measured at the neck-body junction is the most critical, and must be comfortable. If that's higher than 3.5 mm, you may find it hard to play, and get discouraged. I prefer 2.5 mm, though some people like even 4 mm. Make an assessment before you change anything, I'm not being pessimistic, and not suggesting anything will be wrong, but unless you're a born tunkerer, there is no point in keeping an instrument that won't be a joy or will require a lot of work.

And remember to play your oud with the face vertical, or you will have a hard time unlearning a bad posture :D

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Scolecite
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[*] posted on 8-19-2010 at 04:59 AM


Ok I thought my Ahmed Abdel Halim might have come with an unfinished fretboard but after seeing two identical ouds (sans decoration) I don't think its the case. Videos are here please mention anything of note sound wise/quality wise.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J85STeYmbCI

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tYG3hWhKU5I

I play guitar, so I know how important action is. I will make sure the action is less than 3.5mm at the neck-body junction then make my decision from there.

I did read about keeping the face vertical, Im a stickler on guitar when it comes to body positioning so Im going to keep it strict on oud as well :)

I want to speak the oud's language. I have therefore just ordered OudProf's Learn Maqamat on your advice. I am familiar with eastern music (from playing doubmek) and I have no illusions of grandeur. Haha, but I know what you are talking about.

I have searched your previous threads for the desirable measurements you listed in a previos post, but I could not find the information. Can you provice a link? The information you have shared with me so far means the world to me. Like I mentioned I have already purchached that DVD. Your advice is going somewhere and matters in my real life, its not just going into cyberspace. So Thank You! :applause:

Pretty soon along with your help Ill be :airguitar:

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[*] posted on 8-19-2010 at 05:35 AM


Glad to be of help. I can identify with your anticipation! I know you will love that DVD. It includes a "pocket Maqam PDF booklet" for your mobile, and a great Excel spreadsheet that allows searching for Maqamat based on root note and intervals.

As to links, here is one:

http://www.mikeouds.com/messageboard/viewthread.php?tid=10924#pid74...

and another (down the page)

http://www.mikeouds.com/messageboard/viewthread.php?tid=10524&p...

The "scooping" of the soundboard in front of the bridge is especially pronounced on Turkish ouds. It's not an accident, it's how they keep the bridge low but provide enough clearance to play. Good Arabics will also show concavity there, though not as deep. A perfectly level soundboard is an expedient construction technique on low cost ouds and requires other compensation to achieve a good clearance and low action.


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[*] posted on 8-19-2010 at 07:14 AM


Cool there is good advice there. I also emailed Sukar for a price on the Model 1 Oud. If its a good price with shipping Ill refuse my package and just get that instead. I won't be able to deal with high action and crappy pegs. Ive already lost all my hair from dealing with crappy doumbeks.
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[*] posted on 8-19-2010 at 07:35 AM


Sukar doesn't sell direct ever as far as I know, but there are people i know selling them. I'll ask one of them to contact you by email.


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[*] posted on 8-19-2010 at 07:38 AM


Ok thanks :bowdown:
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fernandraynaud
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[*] posted on 8-19-2010 at 01:01 PM


In all fairness, there is nothing to indicate that the A.A.H. oud you ordered suffers from any particular problem.

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[*] posted on 8-20-2010 at 04:43 AM


Instruments from the east tend to suffer from lackofISO9000itus. :) I think it's your experience and frustration with crappy ouds has you erring on the side of caution and predictability. Theres no comparison to pulling your hair out trying to tune or get the action right vs. buying a known name and joyfully playing it the second you get it.
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[*] posted on 8-20-2010 at 05:51 AM


an oud in walnut is always good for a beginner, I think you have nothing to regret, the luthier is honest, he is well-known, he displays things unlike some "crooks" selling under unknown names or perhaps even using , when they are musicians, their "label" to abuse the frail beginners, all the best for your future mastering of the oud, can you contact me on boucharaf@voila.fr, I perhaps have importants things to add that may be useful to you as a beginner, salim
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[*] posted on 8-21-2010 at 10:35 AM


I got my new oud, one thing that bothers me is it said it had an ebony fingerboard and clearly it does not. Its either walnut or padauk like the rest of the oud. It was the main reasons I got this oud over some others. What do you think I should do? Im kinda ticked off.
This oud is lightweight its like a feather. Not sure if thats good or bad. If I threw it in the air I swear it would start floating. :)

Here is the link for the oud that clearly shows it has a Ebony fretboard
http://www.arabinstruments.com/112730/Ahmed-Abdel-Halim-Professiona...

I have it tuned F A D G C ( 9 strings) as thats how it came and the regular tuning was too sloppy. My pyramid ornges are in the mail hopefully.



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2 Dime clearance at the neck joint. I think thats good, they squeeze under the strings just slightly.


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Close up of the "EBONY" fretboard.


Headstock
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Neck Joint


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Thanks salim charaf for the offer, Im sure Ill be contacting you in the future.

Everyone: If there is anything at all you can tell me about this oud from the pictures good or bad please tell me.




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fernandraynaud
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[*] posted on 8-21-2010 at 01:10 PM


Light is good. A good Turkish probably weighs half of this one! Take it easy. Everybody who is used to guitar finishes goes through a bit of culture shock. The finish is typical. You need to reset your standards a bit when dealing with midrange ouds. The little stuff doesn't matter, and this is where you get your tools and sandpaper out, and save a bit of money. If you want a perfect finish right out of the box, you have to get a boutique oud or an expensive Turkish, at a lot higher cost. I am puzzled by the "inserts" on the pegbox, it's more common as a repair. Do the pegs turn reasonably smoothly and do they hold if you push them in? Is the fingerboard level? This is the type of fingerboard that can use a coating, but it may sound better than a hard ebony. How does it sound (keeping in mind all new ouds need time to "open up")? I can't see the nut, are there grooves for the 6th course? Can you post more and better pictures pls, like the nut, the bridge, the soundboard surface, the oud from the side so we can see the flatness/curvature of the face?

P.s. It's exactly what I expected, and I'm amazed at the fast shipping. What you should do is give yourself a little time to make a decision. No oud in this price range will be finished like an assembly line Chinese guitar. These are personal instruments made with simple tools. So take a deep breath and try to be impartial, spend a lot of time with it, see how the instrument responds to being played with a positive emotional set.


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[*] posted on 8-21-2010 at 03:20 PM


EDIT: Imagshack should let you view fullsize but its not working for some reason. To view them you would have to click on the thumbnail then when the photo comes up save it to your desktop to view fullsize.


Ok here we go.

The fretboard itself is flat. The pegs turn well and when I push it they hold their tune on the 9 strings but Im worried about that rightmost unused strings as the last string notch is right on the edge of the nut, where as on the left side (bass strings) there is room.

In this first image I drew a line to show how uneven the nut is where it meets the fretboard.



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This second image is just a photo of the headstock.



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This 3rd image is to show the concave nature of the soundboard, using the only straight thing I had, a white plastic coat hanger.



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4th image is to show lines I drew in on the 6th course which is very much to the right of the headstock. Alot more than the other side, if I did have strings there they would have to do a HARD left to get over to where the pegs are. AND also the last string would be very close to the right edge of the fretboard. Image 8 shows more detail from another angle.



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5th and 6th image is the bridge. It appears to be peeling up but the varnish spots are uncracked so it didnt move since it was made.



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7th image is picture to show twisting nature of headstock. Top line is to show how one side is built higher than the other, and the long diagonal line is to show how the headstock is twisted.



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8th image is another look at the nut showing where that last course would be and also how it is uneven on another different plane.



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Well that about does it. I hope these are good pics and explanations. I appreciate you taking the time to review the photos.










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