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GUY
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Now a long task:cutting the rosace I made a plywood with scraps of the rips (walnut).I tried to cut with the router (Dremel) but it was not easy .I
prefer the jeweler saw and the files.
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aytayfun
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Try Manol type rose. Old timers know to use the type of rose. 
Dr. Tayfun AYDIN
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GUY
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What is Manol?
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GUY
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Now I started what I consider as the most critical part of oud building : The braces.
My concerns are reproducing exactly on the sound board the position of the braces as regard the perpendiculatity to the Sboard , the lateral position
(any lateral deviation will create a gap on the adjoining brace ).It is not easy to fit each brace on a round part which is not stable on the work
bench.Comming from the aeronautic industry I have still the obsession of the reproducibility of a configuration particulary when it must be transfered
to a other part .As my skills of luthier are not confirmed I prefered to build a very simple tool which will help me to control the perdicularity
during the fitting operation and to copy the position when transfering on the Soundboard.
Two pieces of wood of same width are fixed to the neck and botton blocks , then a wooden straigthtedge is glued at the bottom surface of the both
pieces.(This to avoid any deformation of the back)
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GUY
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The two ends of the tool have a pin corresponding to two small holes on the sound board axis (those holes will be covered with an inlay afterwards).
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GUY
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adjusting the braces:
The tool is in place in the back and a straightedge is put on top representing the surface of the Soundboard.A little device (see picture) hold with
the hand against the bottom surface of the straightedge during the fitting of the brace, maintains the brace perpenticular to the surface
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GUY
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After fine fitting of the brace with the top ribs , the straightedge is removed , the brace is out of the device and maintained in position with
tape.A piece of wood (controlled square ) is glue behind the brace (for perpendicularity) and an other piece of with two screws (not going through at
the moment) is glue in front . Now let us wait untill drying .
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GUY
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After the gluing process the boths screws are screwed just to maintain the brace in place (both prints in the brace are less than 1mm and are removed
when sanding to the final shape of the brace).Now the jig can be remove from the back and put on the sound board (thanks to the 2 pins) .The jig is
used also during the gluing process .
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GUY
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After drying and the jig removed ,the 2 pieces of wood are eliminated( by a light knock with an hammer ) in order to give clearance for the next brace
fitting.
My english not being perfect I hope that my explanations of these complexe phases will be understandable.
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SamirCanada
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Good job Guy.
Thanks for sharing this with us.
Merci
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GUY
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Thanks Samir
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GUY
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The braces in place .I hope the jig played his role but confirmation will come only after cutting the edge of the sound board for receiving the edge
tiles.
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GUY
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just for the pleasure to see the progress!
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Peyman
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I like your process. The look is very classy and clean.
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GUY
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Thanks for the encouragements Peyman
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GUY
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The rosace is finished and in place .The center is a piece of bone glued on a thin epoxy plate (0,5mm) ;It is strong enough to support the cutting ,
but filing must be carefully performed (a piece broke during opération but by chance could be repared easely).
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GUY
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Fitting the neck to the neck block .The oud I bought in a oud shop in Paris (It is a second hand instrument) and I am playing for 2 years is assembled
on this way .It is not so "traditional"but seems to be steady over the time
Has Dr. Oud or anybody an opinion about this way of assembling.?
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Peyman
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This looks like a good idea. Is it possible to adjust the action (neck angle) after you put everything together?
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GUY
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" Is it possible to adjust the action (neck angle) after you put everything together? "
Not in this case as the neck is covered by the fingerboard.I know that some ouds have a screw at the bottom of the neck for adjusting the angle but it
is not what I did .I intend to make a tapered fingerboard (as the angle of the neck is about 5 mm at the nut) to decrease to 2 or 3mm which allows
sanding the fingerboard again if some bending appears over the time.
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GUY
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Fingerboard and pegbox assembled .Now waiting for the pegs
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Dr. Oud
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Quote: Originally posted by GUY  | Fitting the neck to the neck block .....It is not so "traditional"but seems to be steady over the time
Has Dr. Oud or anybody an opinion about this way of assembling.? |
I like it! The fingerboard can be removed easily if you use a solid piece and put only a little glue on around the perimeter. Guitars necks have been
bolted on for years, so the method is sound. The angle will need adjustment eventually, so I think it's a great adaptation. Nice work, Guy!
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GUY
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Correct Doc. I adjust the neck in order to have a little negative angle .Now a picture with the finger board .When making the beard I made a error
(beginner's error).I did not notice that the grain was not in the same direction of the grain of the fingerboard.It gave an optical effect of
misalignment. So I put a mahagony inlay in in order to divert the glance.
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GUY
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The bridge is in elmwood .As I found the grain beautiful I did not paint it
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GUY
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This a very cheap device to measure the thickness of the ribs during sanding.So long the defined thickness is not reached the small lamp does not come
on.
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paulO
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Hi Guy,
Nice work, I like the un painted bridge -- and the double beard looks cool. Looking fwd. to hearing it !
Cheers..Paul
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